Study Of Correlation Between Seam Smoothness Of Thin Silk Fabrics And Fabric Structure And Performance

Evaluation and prediction of seam smoothness is the key technology to control the quality of garment sewing appearance quality. The core content includes establishing an accurate and comprehensive seam smoothness evaluation system, and building relation model system between fabric structure, performance and seam smoothness evaluation. Thin silk fabrics is selected as the research object, through experimental testing and statistical analysis, research of seam smoothness objective evaluation method, fabric structure, performance, and its correlation with the objective and subjective evaluation of seam smoothness is conducted. The seam smoothness objective evaluation index system is established, the fabric structure, performance which has significant impact on the seam appearance quality of satin, plain silk fabric is discovered, and the relational model is established. Based on the study of this issue, the project named prediction of seam pucker in thin silk fabric and development of sewing parameters design system is being funded by the Opening Foundation of Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology and is being study. The main research content and findings are as follows:1) Establishing seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabrics based on the dimensional changesThe reasons for the differences between seam smoothness subjective evaluation and seam shrinkage rate is analyzed. Based on seam shrinkage formation mechanism, three new objective evaluation indexes, including no buckling seam shrinkage rate, seam edge buckling rate, and seam line buckling rate, are proposed. Thus the seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabric is established.2) Objective and subjective evaluation and analysis of seam smoothness of thin silk fabrics Thirty kinds of garment production representative thin silk fabrics are selected. Subjective and objective evaluation value of seam smoothness is obtained through sewing experiment. Using a variety of statistical methods, the differences of seam smoothness evaluation between warp and weft samples are examined, the relationship between subjective and objective seam smoothness evaluation is analyzed. The generalized difference method is applied to eliminate the self related issues in the regression model of no buckling seam shrinkage rate of weft direction to the seam smoothness of subjective rating value. The relation model between seam smoothness subjective and objective evaluation is established. The results indicate that significant positive linear correlation lies between the warp and weft seam smoothness evaluation of the same fabric, warp seam pucker is more serious than weft. The reciprocal of seam edge buckling rate shows significant positive linear correlation with seam smoothness subjective evaluation, and seam line buckling rate shows significant negative linear correlation with seam smoothness subjective evaluation of weft samples and warp plain samples.3) Testing and analysis of the structure and properties of thin silk fabricsStructural parameters, physical and mechanical properties of thin silk fabric sample are tested. The difference of structure parameters, properties between satin and plain samples with same yarn direction is compared. The relationship and difference between warp and weft structural parameters and mechanical properties are analyzed. The correlation among structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties is discussed and the relationship diagram of three types of properties is drawn. The results indicate that the degree of dispersion of the warp plain sample elongation is significantly higher than the satin sample, while its weight, weave tightness and density of the satin sample are significantly lower than plain sample. The warp weave tightness and density are significantly higher than weft. The warp bending rigidity and formability of satin sample are significantly higher than the weft. Structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties show multicollinearity.4) Correlation between fabric structural parameters, physical and warp mechanical properties and seam smoothness evaluation of thin silk fabricsCorrelation analysis, loess trend analysis and regression analysis is used to select the fabric indexes closely related to the subjective and objective evaluation of warp seam smoothness. The mechanism of quadratic function relationship between warp extensibility, warp bending rigidity and warp seam shrinkage rate is analyzed. Reasons arising the different correlation degree with warp seam smoothness subjective rating value between warp extensibility and warp bending rigidity are discussed. The roadmap of impact from plain fabric structure and performance on warp seam subjective evaluation is built. The relation models and relation diagrams between fabric structure, performance and warp seam evaluations are developed. The results show thatAs satin sample is concerned, warp bending rigidity, shearing rigidity and tightness ratio of warp and weft have significant impact on warp seam shrinkage and seam bending rate, meanwhile, shearing rigidity and tightness ratio of warp and weft show high positive linear correlate with seam edge bending rate. As plain sample is concerned, warp extensibility and warp bending rigidity have significant impact on warp seam shrinkage and seam bending rate. Furthermore, warp extensibility, which has indirect impact on subjective evaluation of seam smoothness through the nonlinear relation with warp seam bending rate, also show direct impact on subjective evaluation. Meanwhile, fabric with lower weft density and tightness, or higher formability and extensibility show larger no buckling seam shrinkage rate.5) Correlation between the physical and mechanical properties and oblique seam smoothness objective evaluation of thin silk fabricsFabric thickness, weight and oblique mechanic properties are measured, oblique seam smoothness evaluation are tested. The data are processed with correlation analysis and regression analysis. The results show that45degree seam smoothness subjective rate of thin silk fabric is5degree, fabric stripes are extended, and oblique no bucking shrinkage rate and seam shrinkage rate (the negative of seam elongation rate) are very similar. The first principal component composed of oblique bending rigidity; formability, shearing rigidity and extensibility, and the second principal component mainly composed of weight have significant impact on oblique seam buckling rate. For the thin silk fabric with oblique formability lower than0.25mm and bending rigidity lower than luN.m, the oblique seam elongation rate decrease rapidly following with increasing of these two properties, on the other hand, for those with oblique formability higher than0.25mm and bending rigidity higher than luN.m, it decreasing very slowly from approximately2.5%to0%, or fluxes in this area.The main innovations of the topics are as follows:1) Seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabrics based on the dimensional changes is established. The system composed of three new objective evaluation indexes, including no buckling seam shrinkage rate, seam edge buckling rate, and seam line buckling rate, shows good factorial ability, more comprehensive and accurate to feature the seam appearance quality.2) The relationship model system of fabric structure, performance and warp seam smoothness evaluation is established. The fabric structure, performance index which has significant impact on seam smoothness evaluation is determined.3) The roadmap of impact from plain fabric structure and performance on warp seam subjective evaluation is built. The direct and indirect impact of fabric structure and performance on seam smoothness subjective evaluation is discovered.Research results can provide new ideals and methods of evaluating seam appearance quality, offer valuable reference for a reasonable choice of thin silk apparel fabrics, accurate formulation the sewing process, and provide theoretical base for seam pucker formation mechanism of thin silk fabric. Furthermore, the study can fill the blank of segmentation research on seam smoothness according to texture variation of fabric.