| In recent years, the quick improvement of living standardsincreases the consumptive demand of our country to upscale leathershoes, because of our country lacks own brand of upscale leather shoes,the market of such upscale leather shoes is occupied by foreign brands.The technologies of upscale leather shoes are very exquisite; themanufacture of handmade shoes is in accordance with the highrequirements of the workmanship. These top technologies are wellpreserved in Europe, especially in the Italy where is famous because of"The capital of leather shoes", the inheritance to technologies of thehandmade shoes has a long history. Therefore, the subject as the Italyupscale leather shoes with leather soles to entry point, and analyzed thetechnologies that are the supplement of such research system in ourcountry, and then provided the academic basis for inheritance andimprovement of technologies to Chinese upscale handmade shoes.The subject selected the classic styles of Men's shoe as objects,and "dissects"them, then returned to the original making process andanalyzed deeply, summarized the key technologies of upscale leathershoes with leather soles.This paper summarized the origin and development of upscaleleather shoes with leather soles, firstly. Elaborated its origin anddevelopment from Europe and United States to China, introduced someof famous brands of handmade custom shoe in Europe, and selected theclassic styles of Men's shoe as objects by analyzing these styles of suchupscale handmade shoes. The subject analyzed making process of theItaly upscale leather shoes with leather soles by dissecting kinds ofclassic styles and returning them. This part is one of the important partsof this subject: summarized selection of materials, equipments and tools used sequence of process and method by dissecting kinds of classicstyles and returning them, finished the summary details finally.According to the detail process, this subject analyzed all process ofthe upscale leather shoes with leather soles, and summarized the keytechnologies: finishing the last, lasting, technology of Goodyear(Sewing welt), sole and hell making, finishing, and then discussed thekey technologies in detail, analyzed and summarized the concreteoperation of every key technology comprehensively and deeply.This subject got follow conclusions by collecting information,analyzing theory and practice in company of handmade shoe:1) The subject analyzed making process of the upscale leathershoes with leather soles by dissecting kinds of classic styles andreturning them, got the general process of these five styles: they aremeasurement of foot, last making, pattern designing and cutting, uppermaking, lasting, Goodyear, sole and heel making, finishing and packing.2) The technology of Italy upscale leather shoes with leather soles,is named with "Goodyear", analyzed and summarized the process of thistechnology, and then subdivide and analyzed the operation and method.3) Summarized the key technologies of upscale leather shoes withleather soles according to the texture and material, the key technologiesinclude: finishing the last, manual lasting, technology of Goodyear(Sewing welt), making sole, finishing.4) The subject analyzed the key technologies of upscale leathershoes with leather soles, summarized the process of key technologies byintroducing the concrete operations.5) Put out that the materials are so hard and the uncomfortableproblem in the early wearing time, analyzed the solution of suchproblem, and then made the recommendations of promoting the qualityof services, materials, technologies for producing such handmade shoesin China. |