| For a long time, worsted fabric is popular as a high-end clothing fabric amongconsumers for it has some styles including plump to feel, smooth, waxy, active,flexible, warm, comfortable and so on. The research of wool textiles has experiencedthree periods: from "machine washable" of the1970s to "wash and wear" of the1980s,and then to "easy care" of the early1990s. And now, as the progress of the technologyand the improvement of living standards, it has become a new research focus todevelop a variety of functional wool fabric products and to improve its additionaloutput value. The research of wool fabric has entered a new phase of the new andcomplex multi-functional research.In this paper, the silver-plated fiber which has a variety of excellent functions isused in worsted industry, and the technical problems in the production and processingis solved. A type of worsted fabric of anti-radiation, antistatic, antibacterial has beendeveloped, which can provide functional protection for people who work and live inthe environment of the radio and television industry, the mobile communicationsindustry, IT industry, the financial industry, the power industry. According to theproduction process of the worsted fabric industry, nylon base silver filament is chosenfor the study. Temperature and various additives effect on its morphology, mechanicalproperties, electrical properties and antibacterial properties have been studied. Thefeasibility of application in wool textile industry is illustrated.On the basis of the study, different structure of function yarns have beendesigned, such as doubling twist yarn, core spun yarn and sirofil yarn. Throughoptimization test, the suitable yarn steaming process of silver plated filament/woolyarn is obtained. The different specifications of fabric is made by different yarns, then,study on the effect of specifications, patterns, contents, spinning system and yarntwist factor for the fabric properties. Through orthogonal test, the compositefunctional fabric structure is optimized. In the end, combined with practicalproduction, a new finishing method for worsted fabric with silver plated filament isobtained by some research.The result show: (1) Different processing methods of the silver-plated filament have differentstability performance. Properties of high temperature resistant and chemical reagentresistant of special treatment silver-plated filament is better than the commonsilver-plated filament. So the special treatment silver-plated filament is a kind of moresuitable material for development the composite functional worsted fabric. Itsperformance almost unchanged below100℃treatment. Its breaking strength fall2.28%,4.88%and its resistance elevated3.30%,5.86%in125℃and150℃treatment. Surface slightly discolored due to oxidation. After cold water detergent andsoftening agent processing, its breaking strength and electrical conductivity almostconstant. Its antibacterial properties are excellent. After different treatments, itsinhibition zone all over2mm in width.(2) Different structural functional yarns have been made by4.4tex silver-platedfilament. Nine yarn steaming scheme have been designed by single factor experiment.Focus on the yarn steaming process for silver plated fiber author. The final yarnsteaming process is:80℃,15min,2saturated steam cycle or85℃,10min,2saturatedsteam cycle is for doubling twist yarn and core spun yarn;85℃,15min,2saturatedsteam cycle is for sirofil yarn.(3) Design and weaving of16kinds of different specifications of the fabric.Through the orthogonal test to know, silver fiber content is the most important factorof the shielding effectiveness of fabrics. The average SE value can reach53.96dBwhen the fabric content of34%silver filament. But the silver fiber content increasesthe fabric cost, and disadvantage for wearing properties. Comprehensive analysis onthe research results and market situation, the optimum Silver fiber content is6%-20%.Spinning and fabric can be free to choose according to the product characteristics.(4)Conventional finishing seriously affect the fabric appearance quality andperformance in the study of finishing. The fabric surface appears serious piebald inrope washing. Doubling twist yarn fabric and core spun yarn fabric’s shieldingperformance drops18.26%,20.87%after steaming pot. It serious damage propertiesof silver-plated filament. Through to the main process research, concludes a lowtemperature open-width finishing method, this method has been applied for nationalinvention patent, which named "A silver fiber/wool blended fabric finishing method",patent No.201210526177.6.On the basis of the above study, three kinds of different styles and grades ofcomposite functional worsted fabric have been developed. In order to meet the needs of different groups of radiation protection, antistatic, antibacterial compositefunctional worsted fabric needs. These three kinds of fabrics has been applied fornational utility model patent:"A radiation protection, antistatic, antibacterial worstedfabric ", patent No.201220613336.1;"A worsted composite functional plaid fabric ",patent No.201220613744.7;"A double-deck worsted fabric which with silver-platedfilament", patent No.201220613696.1. |
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