Study On Traditional Chinese Cheongsam Style And Structure In Republic Of China

Traditional Chinese cheongsam in Republic of China has an important position in Chinesecostume history, which reflects the style and structure evolution of traditional Chinese clothing,is a typical representative of traditional Chinese women’s garments. Through the study, theessential characteristics of traditional clothing is found, which will be viewed as a basic theoryfor inheritance and improvement on traditional Chinese clothing’s style, structure andworkmanship.This paper mainly studies on traditional Chinese cheongsam’s style and structure anddiscusses the correlation between them as well. First of all,33pieces of cheongsam garments arecollected from private collectors, and then, the pattern sizes and structure of each cheongsam areobtained. Via setting up a database related and making a classification, we get the reference basis.Secondly, we divide the whole changing process into several periods. After choosing the typicalcheongsams in each period, from the angle of flat pattern with its three-dimensional shape style,we get the notion for traditional cheongsam’s structure. Finally, through studying on theworkmanship of traditional cheongsam, exhibiting some important making process with photos,we have a further discussion on the relationship between its workmanship and style.This paper mainly studies traditional cheongsam from its style, structure and workmanship,in which, we have a systemically narrative on its popular styles, ornaments, cutting methods andworkmanship. The whole researching process exhibits traditional Chinese cheongsam’s structureevolving laws, from straight line to the curve, from flat pattern to solid, from whole to smallpanels, and its workmanship evolving laws, from complicated to simple, from manmade tomachinery, from custom-made to industrial line made, which all become the references forexploring traditional Chinese cheongsam’s typical "dual structure" characteristics, aesthetic styleand how to make traditional Chinese costume into daily dress. The whole research deepens onthe recognition of traditional Chinese clothing culture, forms a theoretical system for traditionalChinese cheongsam on its style, structure and workmanship.