A Research On The Structural Proportion Of Traditional Cheongsam

The Cheongsam is a traditional Chinese costume.Its contoured structure shows the oriental women’s curvaceous beauty.To this day,the Cheongsam still has an important position in the design field.Designers have never stopped pursuing innovation in the Cheongsam design.Innovation is based on the beauty of garment itself,so it is imperative to analyze the reasons behind the beauty of the cheongsam.As we know,the Golden Section is the classic proportion in the west.It suits people’s aesthetic preference in proportion and allows people to have a sense of comfort and harmony.As for the cheongsam,since it naturally impresses customers with a sense of comfort through its contoured structure,there must be some harmonious proportion behind it.On the basis of the analysis conducted by the thesis on existing structural beauty in the classic cheongsam,the thesis concludes general regularity in that,to provide theoretical and practical guidance for related designs of modern garment.The research object of the thesis is the traditional cheongsam in the 1930s.Three collected samples are chosen for systematic measurement and structural drawing restoration;The other 57 samples chosen from museums and literature are analyzed for their images and structural proportions.Research on the structural proportion of traditional cheongsam are conducted from two aspects:length ratio and area ratio.As for length ratio,the results from 60 cheongsam samples show that the ratio of 1:2 in the cheongsam sleeves is applied most;the ratio of 1:1.618 is applied more in the cheongsam shoulders and chest;the ratio of 1:1.618,namely the Golden Section,is applied more in the cheongsam upper body;the ratios in the cheongsam body are varied,with the ratio of 3:2,21:9 and 5:4 mostly applied.As for area ratio,the results from 30 cheongsam samples show that the ratios of sleeve area to waist area divided by Cheongsam’s placket include 1:1.618,I:√3,1:2,2:3 and 4:5.The ratio of 1:1.618,the Golden Section,is most commonly applied.The analysis of composition proportion in this thesis has clearly proven that the clothes design should take every detail in consideration and the aesthetics of the traditional classical cheongsam are reflected in its internal structural proportion.