| Underwear is "the second skin of human body". As the living level is improving greatly, and science and technology is developing fast, requirements for underwear become more and more strict, and functional underwear tends to be more and more popular. Applying copper ion fiber to underwear can make full use of its strong and durable antibacterial, deodorant and self-cleaning function. Moreover, copper ion is metabolizable and the price of copper ion fiber is reasonable, so the market for copper ion underwear is promising. Most of the underwear product is made of knitted fabric, whose softness is improved by using silicone oil during soft finishing. Market reaction and experimental research tell that silicone oil can significantly perfect the hand feeling of fabric, but deteriorate its hydrophilicity, effecting its absorbing and discharging of sweat and resulting in stuffiness. Developing a new kind of fabric by using copper ion fiber which is both soft and hydrophilic turns feasible based on the practice in Zhongshan Jinlong garment Factory and KLD knit printing Limited Corporation. There are three steps to develop the product. Firstly, follow up the knitting process, pretreatment, presetting and scouring and get two kinds of copper ion fabrics. One is90viscose10copper ion Jersey Lycra cloth, and the other one is40Tencel20viscose40copper ion Jersey Lycra fabric. Secondly, select hydrophilic softening agent through contrast experiment from blank control group and three kinds of agents, which are conventional silicone oil from KLD, three-in-one compound hydrophilic softening agent and four-in-one compound hydrophilic softening agent. The optimal agent is chosen via qualitative comparison of single index and quantitative analysis of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method. Thirdly, determine the technological parameters of hydrophilic and soft finishing by means of orthogonal experiment, in which the effects of technological parameters including concentration, time and temperature are investigated and six indexes characterizing the moisture permeability, hygroscopicity, permeability, warmth retention property, drape and pilling are tested. The best finishing technology is obtained by using integrated and balanced method of optimization analysis. Experiment results show that the silicone oil from KLD has the best soft effect, but the worst hydrophilic effect, and the four-in-one compound hydrophilic softening agent is optimal balancing hydrophilicity and softness. The best finishing conditions containing concentration, time and temperature are40℃,20min and3%respectively for90/10copper ion antibacterial knitted fabric and40℃,40min and5%for40/20/40copper ion antibacterial knitted fabric. In conclusion, the HV hydrophilic agent, non ion hydrophilic agent and TOW hydrophilic organ silicone in compound hydrophilic softening agent can greatly ameliorate the moisture permeability and hygroscopicity with cumulative effect. Furthermore, fabric structure and organization influence the hydrophilicity and softness of fabric as well as finishing agent. The finer the yarn, the greater the surface area, the more obvious capillary effect, the better hydrophilicity. The thicker the fabric, the bigger the bending stiffness, the worse softness. Last but not least, concentration and temperature are relatively more important factors in the process of hydrophilic soft finishing then time.40℃is the optimum finishing temperature.40/20/40copper ion antibacterial knitted fabric containing more acrylic needs longer time for the agent to wet and attach the fabric then the90/10copper ion antibacterial knitted fabric, due to acrylic’s hydrophilicity is worse than viscose and Tencel’s. |
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