Study On Fabrics Sewing Parameters Compatibility Based On The Mechanical Properties

It is the appearance of sewing fabric smoothness that influences the quality of the garment, which associated with lots of factors. A lot of predecessors’ researches results showed that affecting the appearance quality of the main performance is factors of the fabric itself, as well as the compatibility of sewing process parameters. The fabric performance indicators mainly include: tensile and shear properties of flexural performance, surface friction performance, fabric thickness, etc. The main process parameters: stitch density, needle size, surface tension, etc.Suit fabrics were selected as the research objects in this paper, on the basis of suit material mechanical properties, then classification discriminating, and the different types of fabric to match the best sewing process parameters, so as to realize fast matching sewing processing technology of new fabrics.The main research content is as follows:(1) It is comprehensively summarized about the domestic and foreign research status quo of relationship between material mechanical properties and sewing, sewing conditions effecting on the appearance quality.(2) The mechanics properties test of the adhesive lining fabric. Combined with adhesive lining on the basis of factory actual adhesive liner compatibility, and KES fabric style testing system were used to test the 27 mechanical performance indicators of 30 kinds of typical suit fabrics with adhesive lining.(3) The dimension of mechanical properties and clustering on fabrics. This paper took advantage of principal component analysis to extract principal component of 27 performance index, which would eventually be integrated into 6 main components. BWP clustering validity index were first introduced in the clustering results of K-means algorithm to evaluate and determine that the optimal clustering number was 4, Then every kind of fabrics were analyzed one by one.(4) Study on compatibility sewing craft parameters. The four process parameters of suture line density and stitch density, needle, thread tension were chose to design the mixing level orthogonal test of 4 factors and 3 levels, gaining the optimal combination scheme on sewing process parameters of each categories. The comparative researchbetween optimal combination scheme parameters and factory sewing were made, and it was proved that the compatibility scheme of sewing parameters is feasible.(5) Sewing processing parameters fast compatibility for new fabrics. Fisher discriminate analysis method was used to establish the fabric discriminate model and test the category, and the new fabrics were matched with optimal combination scheme parameters of the category.