| Textiles under different background have its own era and regional characteristics, which are the important physical evidence to study the development of social production at the time. Xinjiang was an important route in the history Silk Road. Influenced by the cultures from the east and west, a unique Western style textile art was created. Over the years a large number of fine ancient wool textiles were excavated. However, most of ancient wool textiles became fragile and vulnerable due to their long burial process and complicated burial environment. And their preserving environment, equipment and materials after unearthed were poor, resulting in the serious damage of many precious ancient wool textiles because of inability to protect. Therefore, it is an urgent problem to explore and research on consolidation materials, which do not produce any side effects after degradation.In this paper, the hydrothermal ageing wool fabrics, which were proposed to simulate the ancient wool textiles, were applied to explore the reaction conditions of m TG by one-way analysis of variance(ANOVA) method. As a result, temperature, treating time and the concentration of m TG had significant effect on improving the breaking stress of fragile wool textiles, but p H had no significant effect. The p H value adjustment is not needed when the fragile wool fabrics are treated with m TG. The optimum conditions of consolidation with m TG, keratin/m TG and amino acid/m TG were determined by the orthogonal experiment. The main results are as follows. The concentration of m TG, treating time and temperature were 2%, 0.5h and 40℃ in m TG consolidation system. The concentration of keratin solution and m TG solution, the treating time in keration solution and m TG solution were 1%, 1%, 90 min and 120 min in keratin/m TG system. The concentration of alanine solution and m TG solution, the immersing time in alanine solution and m TG solution are 2%, 2%, 30 min and 90 min in alanine/m TG consolidation system. The concentration of glycine solution and m TG solution, the immersing time in glycine solution and m TG solution are 2%, 1%, 90 min and 60 min in glycine/m TG consolidation system. The concentration of glutamine solution and m TG solution, the immersing time in glutamine solution and m TG solution are 3%, 2%, 90 min and 30 min in glutamine/m TG consolidation system. The concentration of lysine solution and m TG solution, the immersing time in lysine solution and m TG solution are 1%, 2%, 60 min and 60 min in lysine/m TG consolidation system. The breaking stress and strain of fragile textiles in the above consolidation systems increased 2.62, 3.75, 1.62, 4.52, 3.91, 4.50 times and 0.62, 0.25, 0.9, 0.4, 1, 0.38 times, respectively.The consolidation mechanism was studied by comparing m TG and keratin/m TG. The scanning electron microscopy(SEM) results show that protein film covers on fiber surface of fragile wool textiles treated with keratin/m TG consolidation system. The results of ATR-FTIR, XRD, indophenol blue spectrophotometry and laser confocal microscopy show that keratin and m TG are really involved into the cross-linking reaction. The stress-strain measurement and TGA results demonstrate that the mechanical and thermal properties of the fragile wool fabrics significantly improve after consolidation. The consolidation mechanism was also proposed as follow: First, m TG catalyzes crosslinking reaction between short distance molecular chains. Second, m TG catalyzes crosslinking reaction between long distance molecular chains and keratin. Third, the keratin film covers on the fiber surface with the catalysis of m TG. Forth, the formation of hydrogen bonds between keratin and wool fibers improves the fibers’ strength after keratin penetrates into the interior of wool fibers. |
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