Study On Safety Evaluation Of Polygonatum Odoratum And Its Application In Anti-aging Cosmetics

Polygonatum odoratum,its rhizome is taken as medicine,is edible and medicinal plants and also one of the frequently-used traditional Chinese medicine in our country.Polysaccharide is the main active component in this plant which has a good effect in improving cardiovascular,anti-tumor,anti fatigue and anti-aging.This study has explored anti-aging and safety evaluation of Polygonatum odoratum used into anti-aging cosmetic products based on the bio chemical method,method of animal substitutive experiment and formulation optimization theory,which has provided a broad thinking and theoretical basis for preparating and promoting the functional Chinese medicine cosmetics.The research contents of this paper are shown as below:1)The study has explored the effection of the content of polysaccharide which is used as the target composition of Polygonatum odoratum extract under different ethanol concentration(B),material liquid ratio(A),extraction temperature(D)and extraction time(C),determined the zero level of each factor and set up the response surface analysis tests with four factors and three levels to analysis regression model and established two multiple regression equation,which were obtained the process prediction parameters and verified.The results demonstrated that the optimum extraction process was amended: B(38%),A(41 g/m L),D(79?),C(90 minutes).In this way,the content of polysaccharide was(8.23±0.5)%,which was basically consistent with the theoretical prediction of the extraction rate of 8.30%.In addition,the content of total flavonoids extract of Polygonatum odoratum extract was 0.223%,and the best effect of concentration of total flavonoids was 0.0811 mg/m L which is purified with AB-8 among three types of macroporous resins.And also,the concentration of ethanol solution has a great influence on the elution rate,when it was 70%,the elution rate was(52.55±1.13)%.2)Refer to the current release of animal substitutive experiment from the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development of the European Union.Hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test,skin irritation/corrosion test,MTT colorimetric analysis were adopted to evaluate the safety of Polygonatum odoratum extract.The results demonstrated that,in HET-CAM test,the sec H?sec L and sec C of CAM was 280.2 s?300 s and 300 s respectively,IS value of 0.40 which was less than 1,the results showed that it was mild and no eye irritation;In the skin irritation/corrosion test,skin irritation reaction integral mean value is 0,did not cause skin erythema,eschar or edema,the results showed that it was no skin irritation/corrosion;In the cytotoxicity test,IC50 on NIH/3T3 cells was 26.6 mg/m L,more than 1.50 mg/ml,the results showed that it was less toxic or nontoxic.3)The study has evaluated the effection of skin anti aging comprehensively of Polygonatum odoratum extract though anti-oxidation,moisturizer and sunscreen.When the concentration of Polygonatum Polysaccharide were 0.40 mg/m L,1.00 mg/m L,1.00 mg/m L,the corresponding clearance rate against DPPH·?·OH?O2-·could reached(74.04±1.93)%,(92.37±2.44)%,(90.18±1.73)%,its IC50 values were 0.22 mg/m L,0.32 mg/m L,0.51 mg/m L,the results demonstrated that Polysaccharide has strong antioxidant effect;After smearing Polygonatum odoratum extract,the added value of MMV decreased from 16.3 to 1.7 with 8 hours.In addition,the reduction rate of TEWL were 16.87% and 10.64% with 2 hours and 8 hours after smearing,the results demonstrated that Polygonatum odoratum extract has the function of short-term moisture,repair skin barrier,enhance moisturizing ability,reduce skin moisture loss.When the total flavonoids concentration was 0.08 mg/m L,the corresponding values of SPF and UVA/UVB were about 13.42±1.07 and 0.233±0.006,the results demonstrated that total flavonoids has a better effect in the UVB and UVA area.4)Combined with the results of stability,sensory evaluation,physicochemical and microbial challenge test,the emulsion was made by optimizing the emulsifier,thickener,dosage of Polygonatum odoratum extract and preservative.Meanwhile,optimized the thickener based on the essence formulation.Last,the samples of emulsion and essence were evaluated the health index,safety and anti-aging of human.The results demonstrated that,in the emulsion formulation,the best emulsifier was polyglyceryl-10 isostearate(1.50--%)and sucrose polystearate(1.00%)compounded,the best thickener was ammonium AVC(0.20%)and HEC(0.20%)compounded,the best preservative was methylparaben(0.2--0%)and 1,2-hexanediol(0.30%)compounded,and the consumption of Polygonatum odoratum extract was 3.00%;In addition,the best thickener was carbomer HV-505E(0.25%)and arginine(0.25%)compounded in the essence formulation.The samples were detected no heavy metals and its microbial indicators met the requirements of the standard,which was considered that it were no adverse reactions and safety;The effection of reducing wrinkles and whitening the skin was obvious by smearing the emulsion which included 3% of Polygonatum odoratum extract.In addition,the emulsion increased the skin water content and reduced the loss water of the skin,ultimate,Polygonatum odoratum extract had a certain role in delaying skin aging.