Research On The Evolution And Structure Of Western Women’s Underwear

Nowadays,most of the world’s daily clothing is developed from the foundation of western clothing.When we learn from the experience and methods of western structural design,we should trace our roots.It is a fundamental insight into the origin and development of western clothing structure.As the centerpiece of European women’s style and structural evolution,underwear play an indispensable role in the development of clothing which structural characteristics have far-reaching influence on the design of modern clothing structure as well.China’s current research on western women underwear although has made certain progress in the theory of culture stage,but from the perspective of clothing structure,the underwear shape function of research still has shortcomings.Therefore,this article selects the 17-19th-century western women’s underwear as the research object,combing inductive the underwear shape evolution and its shape characteristics.By the 18 th century ”Pair of Bodice”,17 th century “Stays”and the 19 th century ”Corset”,the article summed up the typical characteristics of the underwear,explores the underwear shape effect in different periods and the structure of the clothing,then come to the results of the formation of the digital corset,and find out the influence of the structure on human form from two-dimensional plane to the surface of the human platform.The main research includes the following five parts:Firstly,on the basic of a large number of documents,pictures,and practice research,the article interprets the evolution of the underwear in the 17 th and19th centuries in time line.It induces the period of its shape evolution and its characteristic,and sums up the different periods of the underwear fabric color in object method supporting material and sewing process,connection mode and mode clothing size and other characteristics.Secondly,finished the research of style,pattern sample,products,craft process,size and production tools,the three classic and representative underwear of the 17 th,18th and 19 th century were chosen to be recovery separately combining the selection criteria.Thirdly,through the style description,design analysis,structure analysis and the size data consolidation in each period,the typical structural features and differences of underwear of the 17th-19 th century are summarized in the article.Fourthly,The article selects the suitable experimental object with based on 3d scanning technology,then put obtained data into “Rapidform 2006” reverse engineering software optimized the grid structure,filled holes,smoothed the data,segmented the point cloud data and other pre-process,it comes to the established models of 3d underwear in different periods so that the characteristics of the thoracic profile of women in different periods were analyzed.Fifthly,with the aid of the established models of 3d bodice and secondary development software “Auto CAD”,the characteristic curve on model sagittal surface and cross section is extracted.By comparing human’s breast height,chest width,chest thickness,flat rate of chest,act length and area of the characteristic curve and some change in physical eigenvalues before and after the underwear,thus,the general rule of bodice shape effect in different period is obtained,for further exploring the intrinsic correlation between underwear structure and shape effect.Sixth,while using NURBS curve fitting technology,a personalized digital platform is generated in “Creacompo 2 Torso” software that matches the 3D human body model.And through the reasonable line setting,flattening is completed from the 3d platform to 2 dimensional sample.