Color Localization And Color Realization Of Miao Embroidery

In this study,based on the theme of Miao embroidery traditional colors,pictures and documents of Miao embroidery in the taijiang area of Guizhou Miao ethnic group were collected,and investigated through visiting the museum.NCS color system was used to analyze the Miao embroidery color in the taijiang region in accordance with its type of branch.The basic rules of the application of color were concluded.Natural dye-stuff include the gardenia,hematoxylon,alkanet was used to dye silk thread and obtain the color similar with Miao embroidery was obtained by traditional Miao dyeing process,combined with and modern equipment.Finally,UPLC-MS was used to analyed the main component of natural pigment on silk thread.It is analyed that the main colors of the hue in taijiang area are red,purple and orange.Maximum color is red tones,accounting for 32% of the total number of colors.Purple tones accounts for 28% of the total color,orange tones accounts for 12% of the total.In respect of the lightness,the embroidery color is dominated by high brightness color,the high brightness color(0-30)accounts for 61% of the total,the medium brightness color(30-70)accounts for 25% of the total,the low brightness accounts for only 14% of the total.In chroma,the medium chroma color(30-70)is more commonly used in Miao embroidery,accounting for 51% of the total,the low chroma color(0-30)accounts for 44% of the total,the high chroma color is the least,accounting for 13% of the total.It is researched that the high brightness,middle and high chroma color are obtained with Gardenia yellow pigment,appropriate to the characteristics of Miao embroidery color.Hematoxylon were used to achieved the red color of Miao embroidery.The characteristic of Miao embroidery red are achieved by using aluminum ion and copper ion as mordant,dyeing at high temperature and low temperature and p H value 3-6.Alkanet was used to achieved the purple color of Miao embroidery.The characteristic of Miao embroidery purple are achieved by using aluminum ion or directing dye,dyeing at no more than 80°C and pH value 2-6.Dyed silk thread was analysised by UPLC-MS.The results of the effective dyeing components of hematoxylon pigment is mainly brazilian and episappanol.The effective constituents of the alkanet pigment is acetyllepsin and alkannin.The effective composition of gardenia pigment is histotin and gallic acid.