Luxury Garment And Exquisite—Research On Archaeological Findings Of Women's Hair Accessories And Clothing Between The Northern And Sui Dynasty

The crown and cap what was trimming decorating hair on head is called head ornament by a joint name.The women's head ornament that couldn't only incarnat personal aesthetic pursuit also express social custom,even is associated with hierarchy,is a part of costume.In any time,all expression of the self is restrained by temporal social condition.Sociaty would transmit collective attitude through the individual costume.The first year of Dengguo that was the title of an emperor's reign of Daowu in the Northern Wei Dynasty,386 A.D.to the second year of Yining of Gong emperor of the Sui Dynansty and 618 A.D.are the period of interception in this essay.For the gathered materials,the culture of the prairie costume and the Central Plains costume were co-existing in this period,forming a kind of equilibrium state of intersectionality.The Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty was an important historical period that carryed on the Han Dynasty and the Tang Dynasty,and the changes of the women's head ornament is worth attention in this period.Correspondingly the study on this question is insufficient.The study emphasis of this essay isn't compairing the barbarian costume with the Han costume,but in the foundation of recognation of two culture systems co-existence,author will dicuss for their common features.In the same time,this essay would concentrating on discussing the crown ornamentation shape of higher rank in women's head ornament.In the foundation of reading literature,this essay gathered unearthed female figurines in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty,and author observed the femal figure in wall painting,potrait stone and stone cave temple,and counted the unearthed implements of female head ornaments in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty.With the help of literature,author investigate the foundational type and feature of femal hair ornaments in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty,and study the shape of femal crown ornamentation in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty.The essay is divided for four chapters.In first chapter,author state the purpose and methods of study,and conclud the current situation of study.In second chapter,author begin from chignon,and make a complete narrative of wig,hairpin,hair claw,flower ornament that inlay jewel and step shake in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty.Author discribe and classify the shape of wig,hairpin,hair claw,flower ornament that inlay jewel and step shake,and conclud their traits.Author find that chignon,inheriting predecessors' custom,was developing as characteristic sector chignon and spiral-shaped coil,and infer that the shoe-shaped gold ingot chignon of femal figure in the Northern Dynasty may be a kind of little crown.Author speculate the situation that femal wig was used according to femal figures of Xianyang Pingling the Sixteen-states tomb and sarcophaguses line carve drawing.Besides,author count the hairpin and hair claw discovered in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty.They are discribed individule,and femal bone hairpin and mental hairpin will decorate the head of hairpin in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty.Mental hair claw were dominated by bifilar hair claw.It can be divided three classes:U-shape mental hair claw,rectangle head mental hair claw and hair claw equipped with handle.U-shape mental hair claw was found from the early Northern Wei Dynasty to the Sui Dynasty.Rectangle head mental hair claw was only found in the Sui Dynasty.Hair claw equipped with handle was found respectively in the early Northern Wei Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty.In third chapter,this essay dicussed emphatically the shape of femal crown ornamentation.The drawing that women put on crown was uncommon before the Northern Dynasty,actually,The drawing that women put on crown was also difficult to see in the Northern Dynasty.We can only find it in the Northern Qi Xuxianxiu tomb,Suozhou Shuiquanliang tomb and the Northern Qi Lourui tomb.In 2013,Yangzhou archeology institution discovered joint tomb of Yang emperor and Xiao queen of the Sui Dynasty.There was a femal crown ornament in Xiao queen tomb.As so far,this crown ornament is the highest rank and most intact femal crown in archeology discovery.The discovery of crown of Xiao queen could help us understand femal crown ornament in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty.In the ornaments that were discovered in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty,we found the golden oenament in Lourui tomb,mantal pieces in Lizhongyin tomb,golden ornament in Ruru princess tomb and golden crown ornament in Lijingxun tomb,and they could correspond to partial element of crown of Xiao queen.It can help us study the femal crown ornament in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty deeply.In general,femal chignon has these traits,including that more sheaf topknot and less drooping topknot,the various model of double topknot,appearing spiral-shaped coil that influenced by Buddism.Women more uesd wig,hairpin,hair claw,flower ornament that inlay jewel,step shake and comb to decorate hair,and there has been femal crown ornament in the Northern Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty.In terms of hierarchy,the noble women distinguish their status by wearing different number of flower ornament that inlay jewel in the Sui Dynasty.