Application Study Of The Feature Of Pattern About Nan Tong Yarn-dyed Homespun Fabric

Nantong is one of famous districts of producing homespun fabrics in China,including blue calico,which is also included in it.The object of study in this thesis is Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric,which belongs to Nantong colored fabric.The study of producing process in traditional hand operation and the study of general pattern have already existed.This study use system of knowledge and theory about design,plane composition of two-dimensions,decorative arts and psychology,history,folklore and the collection and analysis Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabrics,to analyze the motif of Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric's pattern,including the way of constitution and organization,the sense of order,the relevance and continuity of the patterns between Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric and other Nantong colored fabric is also vacant.From spinning to weaving by hand to using machine producing yarn,still weaving by hand,no matter using original yarn or using imported yarn,Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric is popular in the country of China before mass production of machinery.Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric can't be produced in quantity,and generally speaking,weaver designs its pattern by herself and has the control of the effect is the specific feature of this kind of fabrics.Each of pattern is unique,and it is different from flow-line fabrics.Because of lacking documentary records and image data,this study needs to collect the fabrics by visiting Nantong Textile Museum,Nantong Blue calico Museum,Nantong Tangzha district,Chongming tradition culture museum in Qianwei Village,Xingjiao village,Xinghe town and Xianghua town in Chongming.The study collected over 400 pieces of yarn-dyed homespun fabrics and most of them are made from 1940 s to 1990 s.Compared from relevant document literature and pattern,come to a conclusion of the followings by analyzing and researching:(1)The elements about patterns of Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric can be classified into three types,which is geometry,figurative and jacquard weave of Chinese characters.Due to the data,the geometry patterns has the largest proportion in Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabrics,it can be classified into religion and myth,nature elements,animals,plants and life style objects.Parts of elements are motifs(2)According to the constitution of point,line and plane,the study find that the point has the effect of decoration,balance,dynamic,continuation of sight and location of sight.The majority of constitution is made by straight line.The figurative plane and the abstract plane make the comparison between themselves,highlighting the point of view about patterns.The study of constitution of point,line and plane can be the foundation of analyzing the constitution of Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric's pattern.(3)According to analyzing the constitution of individual pattern from Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric,it can be summarized that the way of symmetry has bilateral,longitudinal and rotational.The pattern of reed mat has a long history in China.It has a amounts of transformation.Excepting one or two sticks reed mat which has the arrangement in parallel,this study judge a single reed mat pattern by whether it has a complete units of form likes the shape of “?”.This thesis also classified the reed mat pattern through the constitution of individual units.According to analyzing the structure of individual pattern,this thesis summarizes that Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabrics has two –dimension series patterns and the quadrilateral continuity patterns.(4)The study chose parts of frames of the theory of decorative arts and psychology,analyzing the Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric's pattern from modality and order,including symmetry,blur and clear,sparse and crowded,proportion,dimension,also making an analogy of tempo and rhythm.(5)Through extracting and spread out color of Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric,analyze and classify the feature about the way of matching color in single color,double color and multi color.This thesis summarized the habits of using color through the way they choose single color,double color,similar color and contrast color.The comparisons between proportions of color decide the main hue of the fabric.(6)From researching and comparing of documents and objects about how Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric is used to make clothes,accessories and household items,the study summarizing Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric's usage in modern China through its pattern,shape,structure and practicability.(7)Consider about geographic,environment,climate,geographical relationship,religions,culture and custom,local resident's aesthetic to analyze the possible effects it give on the motif,the way of constitution and organization and the color of Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric ‘s pattern.(8)This thesis summarizes the current situation of using Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric,including it's advantage and disadvantage.After combining the present fashion trends,interests and aesthetic,the study gives some ideas of reuse and design about Nantong yarn-dyed homespun fabric depend on design principle and method.