Research On The Relationship Between Filling Factor And Quilting Shrinkage Of Down Wear

With the improvement of the aesthetic and fit requirements of the down wear,the shrinkage rate caused by the filling factor becomes the core issue of the accuracy of the down wear model.In the field investigation of the down wear factory,it was found that in the actual operation of the model filling and shrinking rate,the method of calculating the sample size by using simple quilting number is still based on experience,and there is no scientific plate making data.Therefore,solving the shrinkage rate problem of the down wear model has important practical significance for the automatic generation of the down wear pattern size and the improvement of production efficiency.In this paper,the orthogonal test method is used to explore the related filling factors affecting the thickness of the down wear and the quilting rate.The regression equation is established and the formula for calculating the model size is obtained.Through the subjective and objective evaluation method,the comfort of the down wear sleeve model is explored,and the regression equation of the sleeve model is established to achieve the purpose of automatically generating the final pattern size.The Vstitcher 3D fashion design software was used to carry out the virtual filling test of the down wear,and the final sample was made to verify the results of the pattern size reduction.(1)On the basis of the investigation,the effects of various filling factors on the quilting rate were analyzed,and the three most important factors affecting the quilting rate were selected: the number of filling,the spacing of quilting,the form of quilting,and the application of SPSS.The design of the orthogonal test scheme was carried out.The variance analysis and single factor statistic analysis of each filling factor were carried out in the orthogonal test results.The results showed that all factors were correlated with the thickness of the swell and the rate of squeezing.The maximum quilting form is the horizontal folding line.The larger the number of filling,the more the quilting spacing is.Under the small condition,the longitudinal shrinkage of the down sample is larger,and the quilting form which has the greatest influence on the longitudinal shrinkage of the down sample is a horizontal straight line;the larger the number of filling,the larger the quilting pitch is,the lateral direction of the down sample The larger the shrinkage rate,the quilting form that has the greatest influence on the lateral shrinkage of the down sample is the intersecting straight line.(2)Applying the method of SPSS multiple linear regression analysis to establish the mathematical model of each filling factor and the thickness of the bulge and the rate of squeezing,and combine the regression equations of the influencing factors to get the size equation of the actual board.The size of the down wear pattern can be obtained in the size of the sample,and the automatic generation of the pattern size can be realized.(3)Through the eight subjects,the five kinds of filling factors were set under the down wear sleeves,and the comfort of the sleeves was explored by subjective evaluation and objective garment pressure measurement.The air-pack contact pressure measurement system was used to measure the objective garment pressure.The experimental points were selected from the three measuring points: deltoid,biceps,and triceps,and the four postures in daily wear.It was found that with the increase of the number of filling and the spacing of the quilting,the lateral shrinkage of the sleeves increased,and the comfort of the sleeves of the deltoid muscles gradually deteriorated.The study on the compression and shrinkage of garments found that the actual lateral shrinkage of the sleeves was larger than the predicted value.The larger the number of filling,the larger the spacing of the quilting,and the more air in the fluffy cells,the thicker the thickness of the swells.The squeezing of the inner space of the sleeve causes the lateral circumference of the sleeve to be reduced,and the lateral shrinkage rate is increased,resulting in tightening of the sleeve fertilizer and poor wearing comfort.The downsizing ratio of the down wear sleeve model is larger than that of the body,and the regression equation of the downsizing ratio of the down wear sleeve model is established,thereby improving the dimensional accuracy of the down wear sleeve model.(4)Apply VStitcher 3D fashion design system to carry out the virtual filling test of down wear.Based on the results of regression analysis of down wear thickness and quilting rate,set the physical characteristics of the model,realize the simulation of the filling of the model,and expand the virtual fitting of the down wear.Reduce the cost of sample preparation and improve the efficiency of sample generation.Make a sample and check the mathematical model of the pattern size automatic generation.The results show that the pattern size deviation test meets the standard deviation standard of the down wear size,and the pattern size reduction result has accuracy,which can be applied to the automatic generation technology of the down wear pattern size.