Research On The Filling Shrinkage Of Down Wear Pattern

The accuracy of down wear pattern directly determines the wearing comfort and aesthetics. The current national standard does not specify the filling shrinkage of down wear pattern. Pattern makers always make the pattern based on their experience in clothing enterprise. At the same time, many designer brands focus on down wear, which is gradually moving towards high-end market. Down wear pattern design is becoming more and more important. At present, the research on down wear emphasized mainly on some basic serviceability, like thermal insulation property and drilling, while research on the filling shrinkage of down wear pattern was little. Thus, it has certain theoretical and practical significance of research on the filling shrinkage of down wear pattern.The research object in this paper was the filling shrinkage of down wear pattern. Based on the literature, market survey and analysis, major factors were summed up:duck down and its down content, down filling mass, sewing threads and fabric. This paper explored the relationships among factors and the filling shrinkage of down wear pattern, and then developed a regression equation based on testing data and verified the effectiveness of the regression equation.(1) This paper chose down content, down filling mass, sewing threads as factors for orthogonal testing and regression analysis. The results showed that the order of priority influencing the filling shrinkage was down filling mass>distance of sewing threads>down content; the regression equation had a significant effect on the filling shrinkage on the perpendicular direction to sewing threads only; the main factors influencing the filling shrinkage were down filling mass and the distance of sewing threads but not down content.(2) The filling shrinkage effectiveness of fabrics with different fabric weight was analyzed by single factor experiment. The results showed that few differences of the filling shrinkage influenced by different fabrics were found, and did not have a significant effect.(3) According to the results of orthogonal testing and regression analysis based on different styles of sewing threads, the filling shrinkage of four styles were studied:the horizontal sewing threads, the oblique sewing threads, the square sewing threads and the diamond-shaped sewing threads. The data were analyzed by SPSS.Research on the filling shrinkage of down wear pattern based on the horizontal sewing threads:the shrinkage of points with different samples on the perpendicular direction varied not distinctively, and the difference between these two values were few by comparing the experiment value with the forecast value of regression equation. So the regression equation, which obtained in chapter 2 was proved to be effective in filling shrinkage forecasting.Research on the filling shrinkage based on the oblique sewing threads: down wear designer should pay more attention to the situation that edge hem of the sample became oblique after filled down material; the filling shrinkage of the horizontal and vertical directions could be obtained through orthogonal decomposition of the regression equation forecast value of the horizontal sewing threads. When the distance from M to C was 1/5 to 3/5 of BC segment, the filling shrinkage value of B (side neck point) on the horizontal was similar to the forecast value of the regression equation, when the distance was less than 1/5 or greater than 3/5 of BC segment, the filling shrinkage of B on the horizontal was two times the forecast value of the regression equation.Research on the filling shrinkage based on the square sewing threads: based on the standard deviation and average value, the filling shrinkage of the horizontal and vertical direction were equal, and the regression equation was developed. The filling shrinkage of the sample of the square sewing threads was positively correlated with down filling mass, and was negatively correlated with the distance of sewing threads.Research on the filling shrinkage based on the diamond-shaped sewing threads:based on the standard deviation and average value, the filling shrinkage of the horizontal and vertical direction were equal, and the regression equation was developed. After sewing, the sample was divided by the diamond-shaped sewing threads and formed many micelles. The sewing threads also made the sample difficult to shrink in each direction, and both down filling mass and the distance of the sewing threads had low regression coefficients.