Analysis Of Silk Lushan Gauze And Development Of Leno Fabric

The leno is a traditional textile with special structure.From the structural point of view,the warp of the leno fabric is twisted,the weft is interlaced in parallel,and the position of the warp changes the yarn surface.Leno fabric has a long history,its weaving process is complex,its appearance is unique,and it has always been a symbol of noble status in ancient China.Nevertheless,with the progress of science and technology,it is difficult to realize mechanized production of leno fabric,and its weaving technology is on the verge of being lost.The paper combs the development history of leno fabric,analyzes and restores the technology of traditional leno yarn,and develops a new type of tri-stranded three-robe fabricLushan gauze is a traditional silk leno fabric in China.It is very precious.It is a traditional silk jacquard weaving machine.Its process complexity is almost lost.T he paper analyzes the structure and characteristics of Lushan gauze.Lushan gauze is a kind of fixed twisted fabric,which is made of plain weave.The twisted and untwisted twisted tissue and the plain weave are jacquard.The fabric is tight,but the surface is clear and the holes are arranged to form hidden patterns.The flat warp and the warp are arranged to form a vertical hidden strip on the surface of the fabric,and the flatness in the plain weave structure causes the surface of the fabric to present a looming bright spot.Based on the characteristics of the Lushan gauze as the jacquard structure,the paper further uses 60s/2 cotton yarn as the warp,60s/2,100s/2 cotton yarn as the weft,and designed the rhombic twill as the ground tissue,the twisted three-six twisted tissue For the jacquard tissue,or the mutual arrangement of the mountain-shaped twill,the three-stranded three-row structure and the change plain weave,a three-strand three-roof fabric was developed by using a multi-arm rapier weaving machine:three warp yarns were used for three twisted three-robe fabrics,three or three The twisting method,which is woven twice in succession,forms clear and stable 6 yarn holes on the surface of the fabric with a diameter of 350 ?m.The paper tests the fabric drape,wrinkle recovery and tensile properties of the developed samples.The results show that the three-stranded three-roof fabric has good shape retention,stiff fabric and good anti-crease.The density distribution of warp and weft raw materials and the density of the distribution of the structure have certain influence on the wrinkle resistance and tensile strength of the fabricThe research results of the thesis have application value for the excavation of traditional weaving techniques and the innovation and development of leno fabrics.