The Study On The Xinjiang Oirat Mongolian Tradional Weave

This thesis mainly focuses on the traditional knitting technology of Mongolians in Xinjiang region,including three weaving skills: card weaving,original breast loom and bias weaving.By the field trips to Bortala Mongol Autonomous Prefecture and Bayingoyin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture the author collected lots of first-hand material about the traditional weaving skills.Besides,the author analyzed the status Mongolian knitting technology owned in the history of ancient China from the study and communication with local craftsmen.Through the hard work the author took the Mongolian knitting technology down instead of dictating from generation to generation.This thesis is divided into three main sections.The first part is the study on the card weaving,The second part is the study on the original breast loom,the third part is the study on the bias weaving.card weaving is one of the knitting machines which operated by the spin of the card so that workers can manipulate the warp yarn to weave.Card can make the same effect as heald to pull the warp yarn on the process of weaving.The ribbons could be widen by increasing the number of the card.The original breast loom used by Mongolians in Xinjiang region was one of the most primitive knitting machines in China.Plain weaves and cross-stich can be weaved by the natural shed and nosed shed with the operation of leasing device and nosed heddle.The major finger knitting technologies applied in Mongolian region are bias weaving twill stitch and bias weaving double-layer stitch.bias weaving twill stitch is a way of waving by the swap of the left warp yarn and right warp yarn.bias weaving double-layer stitch refers to a knitting skill that use the cross of the two groups' warp yarn and the swap of face warp and inside warp to weave.Turehot and Hshot Mongolians in Xinjiang region still use these three knitting technologies to weave ribbons today.Conclusion: card weaving,original breast loom and finger knitting technology which Xinjiang Mongolians still use today are originated from Shang and Zhou dynasty.We can see a close connection between ribbon's pattern and usage.The production standards and weaving styles are also restricted by the demands for ribbons.Turehot and Hshot Mongolians in Xinjiang region still use these three knitting technologies to weave ribbons today,and the ribbon is mainly decorated with Mongolian women's traditional robes and other daily necessities.