Research On Optimal Design Of Fitted Sleeves Structure Based On Upper Limb Morphology

In order to meet the demand of personalized garment design,this paper presents an optimized method of fitted sleeve structural design based on the morphological subdivisions of upper limbs for young female.Through the feature factors of upper limb shape extraction,the typical feature indexes of upper limb shape were subdivided and the compound types were obtained by intersecting and combining the subdivided typical feature indexes of upper limb,and the structural parameters of fitted sleeve corresponding to the classified upper limb shapes were defined,it provides the theoretical and parametrical basis for the individual fitted sleeve structural design.According to the research aim,the research content is divided into two parts:The data collection and analysis of upper limb shape,and the parameter optimization of fitted sleeve structure.A total of 36 upper limb photos and body surface measurement items were collected for115 young female aged 19 to 22 years old in Central China.Based on the results of correlation analysis of morphological variables of upper limb,there are 4 morphological factors were extracted through the principal component analysis:upper arm girth,upper limb height,upper limb oblique angle and arm root height,the cumulative variance reached82.921%.Among them,the upper arm girth and upper limb height were influenced by the size of upper torso girths and stature respectively which is summarized as sleeve grading factors;the upper limb oblique angle and arm root height reflected the local morphological features of upper limb that are closely related to the size of the personalized sleeve structure which is summarized as individual morphological difference factors.The 3~2 types of grading variation and morphological variation composed by 4 subdivided typical indicators,which are divided into three categories of above factors,were obtained respectively,and a total of 3~4compound types were obtained further for describing morphological differences of upper limb shapes.Based on Bayes discriminant analysis,the identification model of typical morphological features of upper limbs was established.All-round description and recognition of the morphological features of the upper limb are realized.Based on the subdivision of the upper limb morphological features,the key parameters of the personalized sleeve structure were optimized by using the sleeve grading factors corresponding to the sleeve width and sleeve length grading size,and the individual morphological difference factors corresponding to the sleeve head length and the sleeve front inclined parameters.Then,the sleeve prototype parameters,including the sleeve width,sleeve length and the sleeve head length,are determined,and the sleeve prototype drawing method based on the sleeve width is used.Combined with the arm inclined size parameters to determine the elbow savings,drawing the fitted sleeve structure based on the differences of upper limb morphological features.Finally,4 samples are selected as morphological feature variables to draw the fitted sleeve,and the validity of the fitted sleeve structure is verified and adjusted by sample making and CLO 3D fitting evaluation.The design method of the structural parameters of the fitted sleeve corresponding to the morphological indicators subdivision of the upper limb is clarified.3~4 types of the fitted sleeve structures can be obtained by the combination of structural parameters corresponding to 3~4 compound types of the upper limb.The above researches can effectively supply the database of human body shape subdivision,and provide the theoretical basis and parameters for the parametric design of sleeve structure and the rapid generation system of personalized pattern.