Development Of Cotton/TPU Monofilament Anti-curling Knitted Collar

The curling of cotton-knit collar is the main problem that affects the appearance and the service life of clothing.It has been reported in the literature that thermoplastic polyurethane(TPU)monofilament has good heat setting performance and resilience.TPU monofilament can be knitted into the cotton-rib fabric.The fabric has good anti-curling ability after heat setting.However,the mechanism of imparting TPU monofilament into knitted collars to improve the shape retention have not been studied.The influence of washing on the shape retention and comfort performance is also have not been studied.This thesis is aimed at revealing the anti-curling mechanism of the TPU monofilament/cotton rib collar and analyzing the influence of the knitting method and washing process of the TPU monofilament on the shape-retention ability of the collar.By analyzing the effects of heat treatment tension and temperature on the tensile elastic recovery properties,geometric dimensions and crystallinity of 180 dtex TPU monofilament,knitting a rib fabric with a 40s/4 cotton yarn and a 180 dtex TPU,and analyzing the influence of different heat setting temperatures on the TPU stitch embed in the fabric,the shape-preserving mechanism of the collar was identified.Three types of rib collars were knitted with a 64s/4 cotton yarn and TPU monofilament which introduced by plating,laying in and fleecing,respectively.The shape-retention ability and wearing comfort performance of the three collars were compared to choose the optimal fabric knitted plan.In addition,different washing times and different detergents were used to analyze the durability and wear-comfort of the shape-retention collars.The TPU monofilament was heated both slackly and tautly at various temperatures.The test results showed that for slack heating,the higher the heat treatment temperature(140-200℃),the worse the elasticity of the monofilament;the higher the temperature during the taut heat treatment,the better the elasticity of TPU monofilament,but the temperature(200 ℃)causes the TPU to age.During heat pressing,the TPU in the fabric was in an incomplete slack state.Hence,the crease recovery ability of the fabric fluctuated as the heat pressing temperature increased.Heat pressing forced the cotton fibers in the fabric embedding into the TPU monofilament.The higher the heat setting temperature,the greater the degree of adhesion and the tighter the fabric structure.The good elasticity of TPU under high temperature and the adhesion between the TPU monofilament and the cotton yarn makes the fabric structure stable.The research results comparing different knitting methods of TPU monofilament showed that the amount of TPU in the plated fabric,laid-in fabric and fleecy fabric is 21.17%,5.38%,and4.93%,respectively.TPU monofilament is distributed in all directions inside the plated fabric.TPU monofilament inside the laid-in fabric is in the form of tuck loops.TPU monofilament inside the fleecy fabric exists in the form of tuck loops and floats.The plated fabric has better elastic recovery ability in the walewise direction and better wrinkle recovery performance.The laid-in and fleecy fabric have better elastic recovery ability in the coursewise direction.The results of washing durability test proved that compared with nylon/spandex wrap yarn/cotton rib collar,the shape retention ability of TPU monofilament/cotton rib collar was better after washing 15 times.In case of chlorine-containing detergents,polyester TPU did not chemically react but swell,and its crystallinity,strength and tensile resilience decreased.In the case of chlorine-containing detergents,ordinary polyether spandex underwent a chlorine substitution reaction and was partially dissolved,and its crystallinity,strength and tensile resilience decreased as well.