Research On Knitting Process And Wet Comfort Of Gradient Wicking Knitted Fabric

As requirement of clothing comfort is improved, the moisture functional fabric has gradually become the focus of textile industry. The purpose of this paper is to develop multi-layer knitted fabric that has moisture function, based on the principle of moisture transfer, the wicking dry-fast property can be achieved by methods of matching materials and finishing, And it would be represented by MMT (Moisture Management Test) with other traditional test indexes of moisture transfer, the process of water transfer in fabric can be clearer, and the system of evaluating moisture transfer property would be set up.Through consulting massive related literature and doing theoretical research about wet comfort mechanism of fabric, materials,structures and technology needed to develop trail-manufacture wicking knitted fabric are discussed in this paper. The main content includes two parts for different ways to obtain gradient wicking function. In one part, matching materials which have different wicking abilities to in each layer, and choosing cotton,fine denier polyester and fine denier polypropylene as materials to knit three-thread plating fabric, In order to avoid three yarns rotating in inappropriate layer, on the basis of plating process theory, carrying angle,feeding tension, property of yarn and other important factors are discussed, and influence of each factor is analyzed by orthogonal experiment, it has proved that the carrying angle relation among three yarns isβouter>βmiddle>βinner,αouter<αmiddle<αinner, the feeding tension relation is F inner>F middle>F outer, the outer-layer yarn should be softer,thicker and rougher, carrying angle is the most important factor for plating effect. After processed plated fabric by scouring,soft hydrophilic finishing, the wicking ability is evaluated by moisture transfer indexes; In the other part, choosing cotton and polyester as materials to knit quilting fabric, double-sided finishing technology is used to develop gradient knitted fabric. For three-layer knitted fabric, waterproof is acted on inner layer and hydrophilicity is acted on outer layer, better gradient of extra pressure difference can be formed between inner and outer layer, it has caused oriented moisture transfer and constructed model of wicking and dry-fast gradient. In the process, controlling penetrative depth of the two agents by appropriate auxiliary tool, there is 50% area by waterproof finished on inner-layer, the rest area forms certain water transfer channels with uniform distribution, the two agents would be stabilized in suitable curing temperature and time respectively, according to the tests of air and moisture permeability, quick-dry ability and dynamic moisture transfer property, the result has showed that the finished multi-layer knitted fabric had better one-way transport ability, wearing thermal and moisture comfort was improved significantly.This paper mainly researches on practical produce and analyzes knitting craft,finishing process and evaluation of wicking ability for the new developing multi-layer wicking fabric, It also discusses the process theory and techniques which to achieve wet comfort of multi-layer knitted fabric and sets the system of evaluating moisture transfer property, there are both certain guiding meanings for designing wicking functional fabric and reference for methods of representing wet comfort.