Research On Folk Costume Culture Along The South Line Of The Grand Canal In The Middle And Late Qing Dynasty

The Beijing-Hangzhou Canal is a grand project in ancient China that has shone brightly for hundreds of generations,and it has accompanied China's feudal society from its formation to its decline over a long period of time.During the more than 20 centuries,the people along the canal have adapted to the living environment,forming a unique lifestyle and cultural heritage within the canal area.The folk costumes along the canal,as the carriers of the aesthetic concepts and cultural forms of the canal area people,have further presented their physical characteristics,spiritual symbols and ways of existence under the influence of the canal culture.At present,the academic community pays much attention to the study of social life in the canal region,but there are few research results that take the costumes along the canal as the object of study,therefore,its research prospect should not be ignored.This paper takes the folk costumes along the southern line of the Grand Canal in the middle and late Qing Dynasty as the research object,and proposes a new research direction that is linear regional costume culture study in the regional costume culture research system.Using literature search,multiple cross-evidence,field research,based on local chronicles,Zhuzhi Ci,novels,custom paintings,and physical samples in the museums,this paper studies the form,material,color,and pattern of daily costumes on the southern line of the Grand Canal in the middle and late Qing Dynasty,as well as the ritual costumes during births,weddings,funerals,and annual festivals.It also analyzes the creation concept,social psychology,and national identity,and explain the factors affecting its cultural connotations from natural geography,humanistic and historical environment,and real social environment along the southern line of the canal.Then,based on the "5W" communication theory,this paper selects canal merchants,canal traders and foreign canal travelers as communicators to clarify the paths and genesis for the fashion spread in the southern line under the influence of the Beijing-Hangzhou Canal.Finally,extract the representative elements of the folk costumes in southern line and make a innovation.There are conclusions as follows.The folk costumes along the south line of the Grand Canal in the middle and late Qing Dynasty have been pursuing new styles.The tops of this period are decorated with edges,the skirts are pleated and tucked,and the hairstyle and shoes are fragrant;the costumes are made of a wide variety of materials,both from China and Western countries,and people admire wearing silk costumes;the colors of the costumes cover a wide range of colors;the motifs of the costumes were closely related to daily life,presenting observations and prayers for life.Based on the analysis of the material aspects of the folk costumes along the southern line of the canal in the middle and late Qing Dynasty,this paper explains the culture of auspiciousness,the culture of talented girls,the culture of Hui merchants,the culture of Confucianism and the culture of canal hidden in the immaterial aspects.And it also analyzes the factors influencing folk costume culture from the natural geographic environment,textile production environment,commercial economy,and migration population.And it is concluded that the communication paths of the southern canal fashion in the middle and late Qing Dynasty include trade communication of circulation of commodities,interpersonal communication of social network,and mass communication of paper media.While water transportation policies,wealth accumulation,and social mobility are institutional support,economic pillar,and driving force for the fashion spread respectively.Finally,select the representative ladies' motifs from the folk costumes along the southern line of the canal are make an innovation.Through direct application and abstract extraction,make an attempt to apply them in the modern home wear design,which provides more possibilities for the modern transformation of Chinese traditional culture.