| Objective:The sensory indexes,physical and chemical indexes,safety and efficacy of three extracts of the Artemisia argyi essential oil,lipid and pure dew obtained by CO2supercritical fluid extraction combined with molecular distillation were studied,and two kinds of cosmetics were developed in this way.Methods:（1）The sensory indexes,physical and chemical properties of the three extracts were compared,and the main volatile components were analyzed and compared by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry;（2）The safety（microbial content detection,chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test）and efficacy（antioxidant activity and anti-allergic activity in vitro）of the three extracts were compared.（3）Study the formula of Artemisia argyi cream and facial mask,confirm the product formula process,and complete the stability,safety and sensory testing and evaluation.Results and Conclusion:（1）The sensory indexes and physicochemical properties of the extracts of three kinds of Artemisia argyi were significantly different.The main volatile components of the three extracts were basically the same,but the proportion of each component was different:the proportion of 4-terpene alcohol in the essential oil of Artemisia argyi was the highest,23.28%;The concentration of sesquiterpenoids in the lipid of Artemisia argyi was 19.04%.Most of artemisia argyi pure dew were monoterpenoids,and the proportion of eucalyptus oil was the highest 6.04%.（2）The three extracts showed good safety and antioxidant activity in vitro:The microbial indexes meet the requirements of 2015 Edition of Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification.The results of hen’s egg test-chorioallantoic membrane were as follows:10%essential oil,100%oil and 50%pure dew of Artemisia argyi had no eye stimulation;Three kinds of Artemisia argyi extracts had good scavenging effect on DPPH radical and superoxide anion radical:the IC50 of DPPH was 0.14mg/m L,0.63mg/m L and 14.13mg/m L,and the IC50 of superoxide anion was 11.93mg/m L,4.14mg/m L and 50.86mg/m L,respectively.Among the three extracts,artemisia argensis lipids had the best anti-lipid peroxidation and anti-allergy effect.The inhibition rate of lipid peroxidation and hyaluronidase in 10mg/m L artemisia was26.45%and 94.5%respectively.（3）The Artemisia argyi cream and the Artemisia argyi mask have good stability and safety.Artemisia argyi cream has a better effect of relieving itching and relieving skin.Artemisia argyi mask has a good soothing effect on the glowing red skin,providing a mild and lasting feeling of coolness. |
