Research On The Structure Of Stand Collar Based On The Neck Morphology Of Elderly Women

In order to improve the fitness and comfort of elderly women’s collar,by measuring the neck data of elderly women,the neck characteristics were analyzed and the stand collar structure was designed,and the fit of the version was verified by CLO3 D virtual fitting.The automatic generation system of collar type was constructed by MATLAB.The main research contents are as follows:Firstly,the three-dimensional body scanner was used to collect the neck size of elderly women aged 60～75,and 10 neck measurement data and 5 derived data of 156 samples were obtained.The singular value test was carried out with SPSS software,one abnormal data was eliminated,and the normality test showed that the data obeyed the normal distribution;The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics and correlation analysis.The results showed that the fluctuation of neck tilt angle of elderly women was the largest,followed by neck circumference and neck length,and the fluctuation of width and thickness was the smallest;There was a significant correlation between neck circumference,width and thickness,the correlation between anterior neck length and posterior neck length was weak,and there was no significant correlation between anterior neck angle and posterior neck angle.Secondly,comparing the neck data of elderly and young women,it shows that the average neck circumference,width and thickness of elderly women are greater than those of young women.The average front and back neck length of young women are 5.43 cm and 6.53 cm respectively,while that of elderly women is 4.21 cm and 3.59 cm.The morphological characteristics of the neck section,circumference,length and inclination angle of the elderly women were analyzed.The results showed that 56.1% of the middle neck section was oblong,and 62.6% of the neck root section was oblate;The taper of the neck is similar;About 2/3 of the samples whose anterior neck length is greater than posterior neck length;The mean ratio of anterior to posterior neck angle was 0.73;Using k-means cluster analysis,the neck of the elderly women can be divided into five categories,namely A-thin and long type,B-slender type,Csuitable medium type,D-strong type and E-short and thick type,which accounted for 16.13%,30.32%,29.68%,7.74% and 16.13% respectively;Five kinds of neck shapes were repaired by Geomagic Studio software,and various three-dimensional models of neck were drawn by Solid Works software,which more intuitively and comprehensively characterized various neck characteristics of elderly women.Thirdly,Principal component analysis was used to determine that the key factor affecting the neck shape was the middle circumference of the neck and front neck length,the linear regression equation between the middle neck circumference（N）and other parts was obtained through regression analysis,such as neck root circumference = 1.004*N+4.087;The basic pattern of stand collar was designed with neck parameters,and the dressing effect is good after CLO3 D virtual fitting;Based on the research results of the old women’s bodice blocks,this paper explored the design method of stand collar matching with the garment,and redefined the stand collar structure of the bodice blocks by using neck parameters,such as front collar width= rear collar width =0.16N+2.58;The stand collar paper samples with different warping amount were drawn,and the regression equation between warping amount（W）and gap amount is established,such as the front neck gap（S1）=-0.207W+1.739.The calculation formula of warping amount was adjusted,and five kinds of stand collar paper samples were drawn again.The virtual fitting effect showed that the stand collar structure matches well with the bodice blocks and can meet the neck movement requirements.Fourthly,The coordinates of each key point of the collar structure were determined,and the automatic generation system of the stand collar pattern was constructed by using MATLAB software.The corresponding collar pattern can be obtained by inputting two parameters: the middle neck circumference（N）and 1/2 front neck length（L）.On this basis,the pattern automation of stand collar pattern with different warpage,one-piece lapel pattern and shirt collar pattern were completed.This subject provides neck data support for the design of elderly women’s collar.The stand collar version studied can improve the fit and comfort of the neck of elderly women.The automatic version generation system provides practical significance for enterprises to carry out personalized customization and mass production.