Women Lapel Structural Principle With Comprehensive Cartography Study

With the continuous rising of the living standards of the people in recent years, there are distinctive changes in apparel demands. Besides wearing to keep warm, what is important is to be comfortable, beautiful and novel. In order to comply with different requirements, apparel is rich day by day with its styles varied and function fine. But the apparel prices in the market about similar style and different grades are extremely different. The brand superiority is one of factors, what is more important is technical contents-apparel type and craft. The present paper puts forward the author' s idea about apparel type and discusses a kind of new drafting method about women' s costume lapel in particular—a synthetic method. The method aims at improving agreement between structure and form, which makes that structure reflects form scientifically and accurately, simplifying drafting process and understanding and operating easily at the same time.1. Features and Classifies of LapelIn order to clarify the lapel is typical, the features of collar are analyzed firstly. Then off neck collar and toward neck collar are classified as per three-dimensional shape of lapel in side neck area, i.e. integrated lapel and divided lapel in its structure. Collar with straight rolled line and with arc rolled line are subdivided as per different stereo shape of the rolled line with the front neck, i.e. complementary type and similar type in its structure in integrated lapel.2. The Analysis of Lapel Level Drafting Method Commonly UsedThree categories and ten kinds drafting methods commonly used at home and abroad are enumerated in the chapter, which illustrate drafting process, analyze each characteristic and compare their advantages and deficiencies.3. Structure Principles and Experiments of Synthetic Drafting MethodThis chapter is the focal point of the dissertation. The synthetic draft method means the plane combines together with three-dimension, take the form as base, realize the accurate reflection from structure to form through controlling angle and shape of structure line.As to lapel, three-dimensional shape of outer line and roll line of the collar reflects form directly and determines the shape of neck line of the collar in the plane structure at the same time. If neck line of the collar is not same, roll effect are also not same even if other structuresare the sarnie. So roll line is not in a position to draw accurately in structure draft but it can be confirmed only in stable three-dimensional shape when it corresponds to given outer line of the collar and neck line of the collar.The area that can reflect the character of form most is side area of collar. So form is described from three-dimensional shape of shoulder location and two parameters are introduced, i.e. value reflected form character "k" and proportion of collar stand and collar fall "m". There is fixed structure parameters corresponding to form parameters. The author obtains the relationship among parameters through pivot experiments as follows: 1) Certain pivot corresponds to certain value of "k" and "m" and has nothing to do with general collar width. 2) The bigger pivot extends, the bigger "k" value is, the smaller "m" value is, but this is not simple lineal variations. 3) The height of collar stand of shoulder location must be smaller than the height of back and middle collar stand. The proportion between them changes with the changes of pivot and collar width, which hasn't distinctive law. So the method that the height of back and middle collar stand estimates the height of shoulder location in structure is not reliable.4) When the pivot is smaller, "k" value is also smaller. Both front outer of the collar and roll line needs to be shorter and the shape of neck line of the collar should be inner arc which is complementary to front neck line; when the pivot is bigger, "k" value is also bigger. Both front outer of the collar and roll line needs to be longer and the shape of neck line of the collar should be outer arc which is similar to front neck line. 4. Illustration...