| Today,with the rapid advancement of technology,some high-end sportswear use a non-marking and gluing process,which means that the purpose of joining garment pieces is achieved by using hot-melt adhesive film instead of sewing.This process can eliminate the need for stitching and sewing needles in garments,thus reducing the risk of sewing needles damaging fabrics and effectively improving the appearance and quality of garments.This project is based on the schoolenterprise cooperation project,through the practice in K enterprises,based on the non-marking pressure glue process,research its application in the elastic waistband of sports pants,and based on this,explore the high elasticity knitted fabric that can replace the elastic waistband of pants,and finally the quality of the finished pants waist made a comprehensive evaluation to determine its feasibility,and finally based on the AHP hierarchical analysis to build an evaluation model,the main research content and conclusions are as follows:(1)The single factor experiment revealed that the peeling strength of the waistband of the pressed rubber pants changed with the process parameters.The optimal range of the process parameters was obtained: temperature 150℃-170℃,hot pressing time 20s-30 s,machine pressure0.5Mpa-0.6Mpa,tensile length 22.5cm-30cm(relaxation length 80cm).The variance analysis showed that the four parameters had significant effects on the stripping strength,and the multiple linear regression model of the process parameters and stripping strength was established by regression analysis.Based on the results of single factor experiment,a comprehensive experiment with four factors and two levels was set up,and the optimal parameter combination was 150℃.Hot pressing time 20s;Machine pressure 0.5Mpa;Stretch length 30 cm.At the same time,multi-factor combination experiments show that it is feasible to use the parameters provided by the company to carry out subsequent experiments on the use of other fabrics for trouser waist lamination.(2)19 kinds of knitted fabrics commonly used in knitted sweatpants were divided into four groups by using SPSS cluster analysis based on their gram weight,thickness,tensile properties and bending properties;The physical properties of the two elastic bands were measured.Based on the test results,a high-elastic knitted fabric was selected as a substitute for the elastic band.Instead of the elastic band,it can fix the pants to the waist,better fit the body and prevent the pants from slipping off.(3)Using four selected fabrics,two kinds of elastic belts and one fabric that replaces elastic belts,12 kinds of pressed rubber waistband samples are made,and their physical properties and dressing comfort are evaluated.The physical performance evaluation shows that the peeling strength and the change rate of washing length of all samples before and after washing meet the requirements of relevant national standards,and there are no bad phenomena such as foaming,degumming and cementing.The peeling strength of different samples varies greatly.The peeling strength of the waistband using knitted fabric instead of elastic band > the peeling strength of the waistband using thinner elastic band > the waistband using thicker elastic band.Four pieces of waistband with sewing technology were made as reference samples,and 20 reviewers were invited to conduct somatosensory evaluation of the samples and 10 reviewers to conduct subjective evaluation of dressing pressure of the samples.The results show that the comfort of the waistband of most of the pressed rubber pants is better than that of the reference sewing process.Multiple linear regression analysis was conducted on body comfort,warmth,smoothness and softness,and it was found that smoothness and softness had significant influence on comfort and comfort.For the pressure evaluation,the pressure comfort of the pressed rubber craft waistband is more comfortable than that of the sewing craft waistband,and the waistband that uses knitted fabric instead of elastic is the most comfortable.(4)In order to evaluate the comprehensive quality of the waistband of pressed rubber pants,an evaluation model based on analytic hierarchy process(AHP)was created.Through expert research,aesthetic evaluation experiment was supplemented,and six evaluation factors including peel strength,appearance quality,length change rate,body comfort,pressure comfort and aesthetic were determined for comprehensive evaluation.Based on the analytic hierarchy process,the weight vector that passes the combination consistency test is constructed.Based on the experimental results of each index,the evaluation matrix R of 12 kinds of pressed rubber waistband is generated,and the comprehensive evaluation model of 12 kinds of pressed rubber waistband is obtained.The model shows that it is feasible and effective to use high elastic knitted fabric instead of elastic band to make pressed rubber waistband.The establishment of this model forms a comprehensive evaluation system of waistband quality,and also provides a reference for the comprehensive evaluation of other parts of clothing.This study provides companies with a new idea of using the pressed rubber process for the production of elastic waistband of sweatpants,and proposes a new idea of using high-elasticity knitted fabric instead of elastic for the production of pressed rubber waistband.In the aspect of enterprise production,it provides experimental and theoretical reference for the subsequent production and development of enterprises.In terms of academic research,it is a supplement to the relevant theoretical research in the field of clothing traceless adhesive pressing,and provides reference for subsequent research.Finally,the theoretical framework of this study can be applied to all parts of clothing that can be pressed with elastic materials such as elastic bands,such as the hem of the foot,etc.,which is of great significance for its research and evaluation. |
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