Investigation And Evaluation Of Naxi 's Skin Care Plants And Their Traditional Knowledge

Due to chemical synthesis and animal source of cosmetics products, which leads to security issues such as irritation, allergic, polluting etc., with Chinese herbal medicine and natural plant as raw material of cosmetics, is gradually accepted by both domestic and abroad, and presents the trend of strong competition. Medicine edible plants and Chinese herbal medicine in our country has packed for several thousand years of history, has accumulated rich medicine plant and its traditional knowledge on skin-caring system, especially it come from 55 nationalities which is blending of Han nationality’s medicinal plants and its traditional knowledge, combined with their specific natural geographical environment and accumulated national medicinal practices and experiences, which originates from "natural laboratory" in the traditional knowledge of all nationalities, and effects on the safety of their consumption, has many years of valuable practice test. However, with the change of the production and living style, these medicinal plant diversity and traditional knowledge of skin-caring is in danger of disappearing. To be collected and proved further step in applied basic research in the future research.The method of Ethoecology, Plant Chemistry, and activity screening of skin-caring cosmetics had been used in this study, and we had literature research of the traditional knowledge of skin care plants in eight Chinese classic ancient manuscripts of medince, at the same time, conducted medicinal plants and related traditional knowledge of skin-caring from Naxi people in Yulong Naxi Atomatically County of Lijiang City in Yunann, China. And then, according to eight Chinese classic and ancient manuscripts of medince and applied experience of medicine from Naxi people,13 medicinal plants with 25 abstracts have been test by four idicators which are safety, DPPH clearance, inhibit tyrosinase activity, promote collagen secretion of screening experiment lead by fuction of the skin-caring cosmetics from collected medicinal plant in the fieldtrip.In order to evaluate plant extracts of skin cosmetics activity and explain Ethoecological significant, it is to indicate the value of plant resources and related traditional knowledge based on understanding and protection eight ancient manuscripts of medicine and Naxi people for skin-caring through modern scientific lab approaches. Provided related basic application research of and Ethnoecological theory for protection and utilization of medicinal plant of skin-caring and its traditional knowledge from eight Chinese classic ancient manuscripts and Naxi people. The specific research results summarized as follows:1. Collected and categorized a total of 90 families,193 genera and 243 medicinal plants and its traditional knowledge of skin-caring since the Qin and Han dynasties to the Ming dynasty in the eight manuscript of classical Chinese medicine by keywords with the ancient skin care efficacy.2. Collected and categorized a total of 75 families,153 genera and 181 species of plant specimens of and its traditional knowledge and evidence in 12 Naxi communities, and anaylized the characteristics of skin care plant diversity and related traditional knowledge.3. A total of 25 extracts from 13 medicinal plants of Naxi people used it in folk and recorded in ancient manuscripts of Chinese medicine have been test in skin cosmetics activity. The results show that the overall activity of rate was 61.5%, activity ratios of four evaluation indexes are:the cell survival rate was 92.3%, activity of DPPH clearance rate was 69.2%, and inhibit tyrosinase activity rate was 30.8%, promote collagen secretion rate was 15.4%.The function of the skin-caring plant, which have been used by Naxi people, their activity ratio not only reveals safety and effectiveness by four evaluating indicators, and but also show the remarkable characteristic which is the antioxidant capacity (DPPH clearance) and sunscreen and resistance to radiation (inhibit tyrosine) activity not only show good effect relationship, more important is the oxidation resistance and prevent bask as well as ability to resist radiation, active extracts of the original plant all are alt. from 3500 meters to 4000 meters, plant extracts DPPH removal ability of strong light and uv intensity is corresponding to light intensity of Naxi environment, and plant activity of antioxidant activity, sunscreen and resistance to radiation, and has the characteristics of ecological adaptability between Naxi people with altiplano red skin. The plant functional activity revealed obvious plateau characteristics. Oriented by plant functional, provided a research method and case study, which is plant diversity and related traditional knowledge for the research of plant diversity and traditional knowledge from the Ethnoecological perspective.The creative points of this study as follows:1. It has the consistency of traditional knowledge and scientific knowledge. 13 plants which have the background of traditional knowledge have been tests in this study through the scientific experiment platform for the activities test of skin-caring cosmetic activities. The results showed a high activity of rate.2. To promote collagen secretion from plant source:The research progress of promote collagen secretion is the focus in the field of animals, the activity of indirect rarely find or have found directly promote collagen secretion is stronger than the control sample, this study shows that the possibility and potential of the collagen promoting secretion from plant, especially plant with application background on traditional knowledge, not only looking for from plants to the source of promote protein secretion activity and present good concentration-response relationship in the same group or in plots,but also proveded alternative plants which close to identify functional activity and complementary between potential clues and research methods to explore, it can be recognizd a great progress in the field of cosmetic research.3. It shows the consistency and uniformity between traditional knowledge and scientific knowledge. This study results show that the total plant extracts of the skin cosmetics activity screening ratio as high as more than half of the active rate, have great value to the traditional skin-caring knowledge of Naxi. There is a scientific theory provides powerful evidence to support that traditional knowledge is a valuable through this case.4. It is first report that provided the basic application esearch of eight plants and one plant derivatives in this study for skin cosmetics activity in terms of four evaluating indicators which is safety, the antioxidant capacity (DPPH clearance), sunscreen and resistance to radiation (inhibit tyrosine) as well parts used for next further research and explore work.5. Through statistical analysis on skin types of information consistency of Fic (Informant consensus factor) and Cultural importance index Cls (Cultural importance index) from eight ancient manuscripts recorded and on site investigation in the Naxi communities in NW Yunnan, it is first time to use quantitative method of ethnobotany reveals the skin types associated with the traditional medicine culture and social economy development, and explains their main ethnoeco logical meaning between skin types and the Naxi ecological niche in their natural environment.