Study On The Hong Bang Tailor

After the Opium War (1840—1842), garments in western style were introduced to our country, Chinese people soon accepted the western suits. The traditional dress of China was influenced unprecedently. In order to meet the trend at that time, some traditional Chinese tailors stopped making the gown, clothing of Chinese-style jacket and began learning the western-style clothes on purpose. So people call them Hong Bang tailor, who were firstly made up of the traditional tailors coming from Ningbo area.This paper has analyzed the reasons from three respects that the traditional tailors from Ningbo were succeed in transforming to the Hong Bang tailors. Firstly, it is a foundation that the advantage of the traditional clothe industry of Ningbo;Secondly, the opening China provide the opportunity that the western suits were spread into China; Thirdly, the spirit of Ningbo also help the transition.During the course of transition from the traditional tailors in Ningbo to the Hong Bang tailor, the quality change took place constantly on their own. This paper explains three fields of the Hong Bang tailor separately from technology, management, education in the field of clothes in China late modern time. Thus dissect horizontally out the Hong Bang tailor's modernity characteristics that were different from the traditional tailors. In the technological field, the Hong Bang tailor break the mode of two-dimention thinking and shaping in the way of four arts that is cutting skill , hand arts , iron skill and machine work. They improve the crafts constantly according to Chinese body characteristic and aesthetic standards in order to reach the aesthetic result of art of the suits, which is accord with the " nine shape", " 16 word pithy formulae "to realize the perfect transformation from technology to art.In the field of economic management, the Hong Bang tailor tried to make the famous shop of suits. On one hand they utilized the advantage of traditional family management to emerge rapidly with low cost, on the other hand using advanced management theory and modernized scientific management mode to help the capability, scale and popularity expand constantly. In order to promote development of the whole trade, increase the ability to resist external risk, and meet the dangerous political and economic current political situation at that time, the Hong Bang tailors set up their own business organization. The trade council of the suit industry had been already totally different from the feudal business organization. It had obviously the modern society organization characteristic of democracy and opening using the scientific and normal management to break through the closing and limitation of the feudal business organization. The modern society organization played a role on standardizing behavior, providing service, reacting the demand, asking for development, shaping the image etc. to promote the fast development of the whole suit institute.In the educational field, the Hong Bang tailor inherit the traditional personnel training way, which was in conformity with the small-scale cottage industry under the state with low productivity to guarantee the supply of talents in the previous development of suit industry. But with the constant development of the suit industry, the Hong Bang tailor realized the way of traditional vocational education can not meet demands of trade development. Then they strive vigorously to advocate modern vocational education and eliminate the backward vocational education system gradually. Shanghai suit industry trade council established cutting class for nearly 10th from 1930s, which had lessons in classroom and used the flexible, effective teaching method to train the high-quality talents in a large amount rapidly who master the cutting technology skillfully. First regular craft vocational school was established in the suits trade in 1948 named " vocational school of elementary craft of private suit industry of Shanghai ", which enrolled openly for the first time. It's the model of scientific course offered, institutionalized school management, the teaching way linking learning and exercise for the modern clothes vocational education.Reviewing the Chinese transformation period, the Hong Bang tailor take the responsibility to construct the dress industry in China modern times. They create " Shanghai's style " suits, Chinese and Western clothes style Zhongshan suit, cheongsam to lead the transition of the Chinese dress. They seize the market of suit at home and abroad to promote the national costume industry. They make the rapid development on clothes industry in the southeast of China with the superb suit manufacturing technology after reformation opening to catalyze the prosperity of the regional clothes industry. The Hong Bang tailor not only make remarkable contribution for the historical process which promotes the Chinese clothes industry, but also it has valuable reference value and realistic meaning that their technological experience, management mode, educational idea and enterprising spirit help to improve modern clothes technology, innovate the management mode of the clothes enterprise and chose the way to train the talents of clothes ,etc.