Rules Research On Personalized Apparel Pattern Based On Features Of Young Women’s Bodies

This dissertation focus on the generation of personalized apparel pattern using3D bodyscanning data. Two main subjects were studied and solved in this paper, one is the conversionof3D features of human bodies to2D curves of apparel pattern, and another is the generationof personalized apparel pattern using our innovative methods. The results of our researchdeveloped a set of rules that help develop personalized apparel pattern automatically andcontributes to the application of3D body scanning data in the fashion design andmanufacturing industries.This study proposed a method to convert the3D features in human body to2D curvesin apparel pattern simply using the theories of fashion modeling. In process of ourexperiments, the objects were studied term by term on different feature parts primarily. Therelationship between the3D features and the shape of curves was explored usingtechnologies of anthropometry and fashion modeling. A series of rules on generation ofcurves of personalized apparel patter was progressed. These rules were classified to differentgrades by different parameters which reflect the characteristic of the features of a body.These rules and grades help control the shape of curves in a certain pattern to develop anindividual prototype. Further, the rules to progressing a certain prototype to a personalizedpattern was studied and proposed.Approximate seven hundred young female’s bodies of3D scanning data were used inthe experiments. First, the relationship between the features of lower body and the shape ofcurves of pants was studied. In this part of the research, some basic factors were defined andstudied which include the determination of features of lower bodies in a virtual environment,the somatotype of lower bodies and the determination of height/girth/crotch. Second, therelationship between the features of upper body and the shape of curves of shirts and/or suitswas studied. Many features in upper bodies, such as the breast, the waist, the shoulder, theneck and the shoulder-arm, were selected and studied in a virtual space. Meanwhile, the rulesto developing bust darts, waist darts, scapular darts, neck-base line and the armhole line werestudied and proposed as results. Third, the conversion from a prototype to an individual pattern was studied. The distribution of ease in a virtual space was studied and a model called“ease allowance-distance ease-increment of pattern” was established to progress a prototypeinto a personalized pattern.Above all, this dissertation works on the rules of the generation of personalized apparelpattern from3D body scanning data and presents a few of innovations and originalities.These innovative and original works can be described as follows:（1） Description of types of human bodies.This paper selected more parts of the bodies as the feature parts to improve the precisionof measurements than the traditional methods. These feature parts includeBust(breast),Waist(F/F,Front/Back), Shoulder(Scapula), Neck(F/B), Shoulder-Armhole,Hip(F/B), Thigh(F/B), Crotch(F/B) and Knee(F/B).It is different from the methods of the traditional anthropometry that this paper takesadvantage of3D body scanning data to study the shape of each feature part respectively. Oneof the advantages of3D body scanning technology is that it can provide an intact surface ofa body in3D form instead of only some values of measurements in1D form. It is well knownthat3D data contains more information than the1D ones and the information is the key todevelop an individual pattern. Further, this paper initiated some new methods to measuresome feature parts that are out of the ASTM D5219-94d, such as the curve of crotch, theheight and the radius of the breast and the shape of shoulder-armhole.Forty three parts of the lower body are measured which include16items of the girth,8items of the height,7items of the thickness,6items of the length and6of the others.Correspondingly twenty five parts were measured on the upper body which cover6girths inthe Bust,4girths in the Waist,3lengths and1angel in the shoulder,2widths and1thicknessin the Neck and4thickness and4widths in the Shoulder-Armhole.（2）Conversion of3D body to2D apparel pattern.It is the key for researches in field of3D to2D that how to convert3D bodies to2Dapparel patterns effectively. A lot of research teams had contributed their studies on this issuefor many years. But there is no any method admitted to be a real solution. Here, a new methodis provided trying to solve this issue in a concise and efficient way.A case study of generation of the personalized bust dart can show the ideas and practicesof this solution. The differences among personalized patterns lie in the angle of bust dart.This paper studied the relationship between the angle and the shape of breast. A model of H/R (the ratio of the height and the radius of the breast) was built as a rule to generate theangle of bust dart in the upper pattern. Different people who have different H/R will developdifferent bust angle according to our rules.Compared with the traditional methods, it is that the bridge for the conversion is thetheory of anthropometry and the modelling of garments.（3）Relationship between the shapes of human bodies and the reality ofpersonalized pattern.The shapes of human bodies differ in thousands of ways. And customer-made is low incost-effectiveness. A new method was built to sort the shapes of human bodies into differentgrades to express the relationship of human bodies and the individual patterns.In the research the lower body was classified into18categories and the upper was2520categories, which can cover almost all possible requirements for the garments in real life.（4）Conversion from prototype to personalized apparel pattern.It should develop a set of prototype without any ease based on the researches above. Ifease allowance can be added onto the prototype in a proper way, an individual apparel patternshould be developed accordingly.An experiment was carried out to explore the distribution of ease allowance in3Denvironment and the relationship between the ease allowance and the increment of pattern.A model called “ease allowance given-distance ease-increment of pattern” was establishedas a result, which can convert the prototype to the personalized apparel pattern efficiently solong as the ease allowance was given.