Research On Grading Technology Of Pleat Complex Structure Apparel

With the development of economy and the improvement of people's living standard,which making clothing consumption standard and consumption level rising continuously, the demand of complex structure apparels is rowing in the market, the requirements of production technology in complex structure apparels are also increasing drastically. During the industry production,the grading problem of complex structure apparels is one of production technology requirements.The apprel which adopt pleat modelling elements is one of the category of complex structure apprels. So, solvind the technology problem of pleat garment not only can perfect the grading technology, strong the basic training of CAD system, but also can provide technology endorsement for apparel companies to improve product level.This paper according to the thinking of question—theoretical analysis—experimental analysis—techniques'realization—results'evaluation, selects pleat pattern'grading technique proplom of paramount apparel production as research object; by analysing basic theory and demand, combining the characteristic analysis of pleat complex structure apparel, selecting pleat pattern which is representative as the experimental object, through theoretical analysis and experimental results'analysis , develops the principles of manual grading; at the basic of this , chooses Syscad software,with the subject cooperation company together, designs the pleat pattern's grading special function of Syscad software , realizes preliminary the pleat pattern's grading function specially;.finally, evaluating the results on hand and computer grading in pleat garments, the evaluation through compute the Mahalanobis Distance of actual and expected size, inspect the accuracy of garments size, and use the method of fuzzy synthetic evaluation to judge clothing similiaity before and after the grading subjectively;the results of revolution shows that both the pleat pattern's grading approach and the Syscad pleat pattern's grading special function are accurate and effective.According to research and analysis, this paper concluds the main conclusions as follows:(1)The pleat pattern's grading approach and main pointare are: according to design, determine total coordinates, expand the pleat, set grading points according to the style feature,grading points are divided into two classes: the datum points which control apparel structure modelling and aid points which control auxiliary style; then judge each grading point's direction bases on the coordinate expansion method; namely establishes axis in fold form,the coordinate spread with the total axis, form a number of sub-coordinates, so according to coordinate, coordinate direction of grading point is judge from its recent sub-coordinates. At last make sure the amout of grading point, the method is: according to the laws of human body to determine the amount of datum points, according to the garment which was expanded the proportion of each part pattern of total to determine the amount of aid points.(2)The pleat patern's grading special function of Syscad system is: the grading points'direction of a grading point can be according to the coordinate of user choose random lines on the pattern.(3)Evaluate the results of grading can take the objective and subjective ways: on the one hand, markov distance can measure close degree of theory and actual size, and analysis the variance of Mahalanobis Distance, so it can be an objective evaluation of the accuracy of post size apparel, and can be directly obtained by draping method of clothing size as a reference;on the other hand, fuzzy comprehensive evaluation to the series apparels which have similary appearance can be easily quantitative index, from a subjective way to evaluate results of grading.