| In the system of People-Air gaps under clothing-Clothing-Environment,air gaps under clothing which directly contact the wearer with the clothing worn,was important to the comfort of clothing.The change of air gaps under clothing has influence on integrated comfort of garment worn including thermal and moisture comfort,tactile comfort and pressure comfort.Take air gaps under clothing as the starting point,this paper build the Average Thickness of Air Gaps under Clothing Index in two ways of direct measurement and calculation formula to quantitatively characterize air gaps under clothing,by using three-dimensional scanning optical technology and computer graphics technology.Based on the representation of air gaps under clothing,the integrated comfort of garment worn influenced by clothing features,fabric properties,environmental conditions and human physiological characteristics was studyied.Change the fabrics and sizes of test garments in the wear trial,and establish the prediction model of integrated comfort of garment worn including thermal and moisture comfort,tactile comfort and pressure comfort,using eigenvalues such as distribution of air gaps under clothing,temperature and humidity,pressure values and so on.In pilot studies,27 kinds of test fabrics with different fibers,weights and coatings were tested on basic fabric parameters,heat and moisture comfort performances,tactile comfort performances and pressure comfort performances.Trial garments had 6 sizes based on the standard size of 170/88 A,transiting from tight to fit and to loose gradually.Orthogonal design method for arranging the production of trial garments was adopted to improve the efficiency of the tests and the scientificity of the test results.Four controlling factors of clothing size,fabric material,fabric weight and fabric coating were extracted and an interaction was considered.L9(34)orthogonal table was chosen to put arrangements for nine pre-test garments with different fabrics and the same size.And L27(313)orthogonal table was chosen to put arrangements for 54 test garments with different fabrics and different sizes.All the 63 pieces of trial garments were tested on their thermal insulation.The main conclusions in the study were summarized as follows:(1)The concept of Integrated Comfort of Garment Worn was put forward.The Integrated Comfort of Garment Worn means the comprehensive comfort sensations to the wearing apparel by the feelings of the wearer,including heat and moisture comfort sensation,tactile comfort sensation and pressure comfort sensation.The Integrated Comfort of Garment Worn covered the sense of thermal,the sense of stuffy,the sense of contacting cold,the sense of sticky,the sense of prickle,the sense of heavy and the sense of tight in the dressed state.No matter what kind of wearing state were in,the Integrated Comfort of Garment Worn was the comprehensive reflection of a variety of comfort sensations above together.(2)The description system for woven trial fabrics was summarized.Taking the international standards and national standards into account,and considering the reflection of the thermal and moisture comfort,tactile comfort and pressure comfort,a system of description for woven trial fabrics was summed up to quantitatively characterize test woven fabrics and to make basis of the prediction model of integrated comfort of garment worn.The description system for woven trial fabrics consisted of two major categories of fabric parameters and fabric properties.The category of fabric parameters described the fabric from three angles of the fiber,yarn and textile,and the category of fabric properties described the fabric from three angles of heat and moisture comfort properties,tactile comfort properties and pressure comfort properties.Representative indicators were selected in each category.(3)The concept of Non-clothes-replacement Way was proposed.In the process of experimental study,the method of Non-clothes-replacement Way was put forward,which meant trials were progressed in the same state and the thermal and moisture comfort,tactile comfort and pressure comfort were investigated without changing the trial clothes.The objective measurements and subjective sensations of wearers separately corresponding to heat and moisture comfort,tactile comfort and pressure comfort were recorded,and the integrated evaluation questionnaire was completed.Determine the specific test operation and standardize the testing procedures.The observation was succeeded to complete at the same time,the same environment and under the same psychological state,so that the disturbances of factors could be reduced.It was to ensure that the thermal and moisture comfort,tactile comfort and pressure comfort were subjectively evaluated in the same environmental condition and psychological state.(4)The utility estimation model of integrated comfort of garment worn was established by using conjoint analysis method.The conclusion of pre-test results that the interaction of the fabric material and weight played an important role for the integrated comfort of garment worn was drawn by conjoint analysis.The utility estimation model of integrated comfort of garment worn was established through the test results by conjoint analysis.The utility percentages of factors in orthogonal design were calculated.According to the results of the analysis,the larger test garments were the more comfortable subjects felt;silk clothing were felt more comfortable than linen clothing,and linen clothing were felt more comfortable than cotton clothing;light clothing were felt more comfortable than moderate clothing,and moderate clothing were felt more comfortable than heavy clothing;clothing with non-coated fabric were felt more comfortable than those with high-permeability-coated fabric,and clothing with high-permeability-coated fabric were felt more comfortable than those with low-permeability-coated fabric.Score of integrated comfort of garment worn to every combination of different levels of factors could be predicted based on the utility estimation model;also the score of integrated comfort of garment worn to the most comfortable combination form could be predicted.The nature of the reason was explored from the perspective of morphology on the fiber surface of the fabric.(5)A new index of the Average Thickness of Air Gaps under Clothing was defined.Scan data were acquired based on the simulation mannequin wearing test clothing.By using of computer graphics technology,the global existence of air gaps under clothing was represented three-dimensionally.The distribution of air gaps under clothing on the surface of the body could be detected.On the surfaces of the prominent parts and curved parts of the body,the average thickness of air gaps under clothing was small;on the surfaces of the concave parts and not curved parts of the body,the average thickness of air gaps under clothing was large.With Reverse Engineering software,the average thickness of air gaps under clothing was measured,and the measured and calculated values were compared using two-paired sample Wilcoxon signed-rank tests.The P value for the test was 0.139,showing no significant differences between the two.So the Average Thickness of Air Gaps under Clothing could be calculated through the defined formula as characterization index for air gaps under clothing,if the measurement could not be done conveniently.However,on a real person and the wearer,minor changes in standing posture,standing point or even the curvature of the spine could make it hard to,align the naked scan model with the dressed scan model.This means it is difficult to apply the actual measurement method,but suitable in the application of the formula calculation to obtain the average thickness of air gaps under clothing.By applying the defined formula to a real person wearing clothes,it can be used to calculate the average thickness of air gaps under clothing of a real person wearing any type of clothing.(6)Prediction equation of the average thickness of air gaps under clothing was established.Consider the main impacts of apparel and fabric performances,the prediction equation of the average thickness of air gaps under clothing was established by stepwise regression method to eliminate the multicollinearity between variables.The average thickness of air gaps under clothing was significantly correlated positively with the size of clothing,the stiffness,the elongation and the mass per unit area of the fabric,and was significantly correlated negatively with the compression work,the weft density,the bending and compression recovery rate of the fabric.The regression of the prediction equation was significant through test,and the predictive value of the average thickness of air gaps under clothing was precise.The conclusion could play a role in predicting and controlling the clothing design process,especially the material design process of clothing.(7)Prediction model of integrated comfort of garment worn was established.The model included the thermal and moisture comfort,tactile comfort,pressure comfort and integrated comfort of garment worn.The fitting degree of each equation fulfilled the standard,and the regression were significant though the test of determination coefficient and significance.Contrasting the multiple variables affected to thermal and moisture comfort,tactile comfort,pressure comfort and integrated comfort of garment worn,the appearances of variables repeated.It indicated that these factors affect the integrated comfort of garment worn with collaborative cross and joint presentation.So it was corresponding to the concept of Integrated Comfort of Garment Worn,and confirmed that no matter what kind of wearing state were in,the Integrated Comfort of Garment Worn was the comprehensive reflection of a variety of comfort sensations together.Innovations in the contents of researches in the thesis:? The concept of Integrated Comfort of Garment Worn was put forward;? The description system for woven trial fabrics was summarized;? A new index of the Average Thickness of Air Gaps under Clothing was defined;? Prediction model of integrated comfort of garment worn was established.Innovations in the methods of researches in the thesis:? With a synthesis of the orthogonal experimental design and conjoint analysis methods,complex multi-factor test problems about integrated comfort of garment worn were solved;? The test method of Non-clothes-replacement Way was proposed.It was a fundamental research work to define and quantificationally characterize air gaps under clothing.Accurate,convenient,intuitive and comprehensive way of representation of air gaps under clothing was required to explore the influences of air gaps under clothing to a variety of clothing comfort,and was conducive to further study of the quantitative relationship between air gaps under clothing and integrated comfort of garment worn.While the establishment of prediction model of integrated comfort of garment worn would deepen the understanding of clothing comfort,and was significant to the development of comfortable and functional products and the study of clothing comfort evaluation. |
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