Study On The Influence Of Fabric Properties On Looseness Of Lapel Collar

With the development of textile industry, the influence of fabric properties on structure, techniques and production of garment become to be the emphases which professionals have to study. The relationship between fabric properties and garment structure is the main point of the study, and lapel collar which is the classic collar is chosen. The lapel collars are made by different kinds of fabrics, and then they are tested by wearing on the dress form. The quantitative relationship between fabric properties and looseness of lapel collar is studied with a series of experiments.The fabric properties and looseness of lapel collar is narrated. According to the looseness which is the difficult part of the lapel collar design, the influence of fabric properties on looseness of lapel collar is studied and analyzed. Nine kinds of fabrics commonly used for suits are chosen for the experiments. First of all, sixteen mechanical properties are tested by KES-FB system. Principal component analysis is used with SAS software for minimizing the variables from 16 to 4. The 4 variables are WT, RT, RC and W of the fabric properties. Secondly, 5 kinds of lapel collars are made with the 9 kinds of fabrics, the length of the collar stand is 2.5cm, the width of the top collar is 3.5, 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5cm, and the difference of top collar and collar stand width is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5cm. And the suitable looseness is found for each collar. The result is that WT, RT, RC, W and the difference have more influence on the looseness, and some quantitative relationship is found. The equation of WT ( x₁ ), RC ( x 2), W ( x₃ ), h ( x₄ ) and y is as follows:It is proved that WT, RT, RC, W have more influence on the looseness of lapel collar than other properties. With the increase of the difference of top collar and collar stand width, the looseness increases differently due to the kinds of fabric. The conclusion not only can help to set the variance of lapel collar, but also can help people to coordinate the relationship between the looseness and fabric.