Research On Spirality And Finishing Technology Of Plain Knitted Wool Fabrics

Wool is a natural textile material,and wool fabrics win warm praise from customers.But there remain some problems during the process of production and wear.Spirality is a particularly serious problem for plain knitted fabrics, and it has an obvious influence on both the aesthetic and functional performance of garments.A great many of researchers have been made to solve this problem,but they have mainly focused on the spirality of cotton and its blended fabrics,and only a few works have considered the spirality of plain knitted wool fabrics.In this article we selected two types of single and ply wool yarns as material,and orthogonal test was used to analyze the influence of knitting machine parameters on the spirality of plain knitted wool fabrics,including yarn tension,sinking depth,feeds and knitting speed.The results showed that the yarn tension has the most influential effect on the spirality of plain knitted wool fabric made of single yarns.The spirality of plain knitted wool fabric made of single yarns was more serious than made of ply yarns.Washing will increase the spirality behavior of plain knitted wool fabric.In this thesis,steaming process was used to steady the yarn twist.We found that steaming can steady the yarn twist liveliness very well,and the intensity and initial module of yarn just be decreased slightly.After steaming, the spirality of plain knitted wool fabric was improved obviously.Wool knitted fabric will occur pilling during wearing,which have a serious impact on the comfortable feeling.In this paper,an anti-pilling finishing agent was selected to treat the plain knitted wool fabric.The influence of parameters such as the dosage of finishing agent and temperature on finishing effect was discussed.The optimum of finishing technology was settled.In addition,we used Basosoft SWK,which is a kind of silicone softener made by Basf Company,in wool knitted fabric's finishing.It was found that the properties of bursting strength,drapability,rigid-flexible and wrinkle retention increased,but the air and moisture permeability decreased a little.