Study On Pilling Resistence Of Knitting Sweaters

With the improvement of living standard, people not only require the change of clothing,innovation, the pursuit of personalized, but also pay more and more attention to the quality of thefabric. Knitting sweater, with its excellent taking comfort, has become one of the most popularclothing products for a long time. Knitting sweater is made of wool yarn or wool like chemicalfiber, knitted by flat knitting machine, the most prominent disadvantage is very easy to pillingduring wearing and washing process, especially for friction parts.Shartex International Trading Co, Ltd. is a large trading company, specialized in knittingsweater export business. In the process of the company operating, they found that pillingperformance of knitting sweater is poor and the anti pilling grade cannot meet customerrequirements.On normal occasion, the company purchases yarn at first, then takes test for pillingperformance for knitting sweaters. If the fabric fail in pilling test, they would return it to thefactory and then retest pilling performance. This kind of process wastes a lot of time. It not onlyaffects cargo delivery, but also improves the company purchasing cost. In addition, for the samesweater, the phenomenon is obvious that the homogeneous grade at the same level about pillinggrades between United States and Europe. It influences the delivery rate of the product andcompany professional image to customer seriously.Taking these two problems into consideration seriously, this paper selected common yarns ofShartex to knit sweaters and took pilling test. Moreover, the paper explored the five factors whichinfluence the pilling performance of knitting sweaters, studied three test standards required by thecustomers. Also, the advisements of pilling resistance grade improving were proposed by comparing the different test methods.Firstly, this paper studied pilling performance for the three most commonly used knittingsweaters of Shartex. The experimental results show that knit structure of sweater is loose and thepilling performance is poor. Analyzed the mechanism of knitted sweater pilling and observed fourstages of the pilling process as follows:(1) fluff formation;(2) bound into the ball;(3) shapegrowth;(4) balls off.Secondly, under the condition of the same standard, this paper studied the pillingperformance of different kinds of blended fiber, yarn counts, twists, spinning methods andorganizational structures of knitting sweater pieces. The experiment results show that pilling gradeincreased when the coarse yarn increased. With the increase number of the fiber which crosssection is circular, the sweater is more likely to pilling. Yarn twist lessen, fabric pilling gradeincreased. It would improve the pilling performance of knitting sweater piece by changingspinning way such as jet vortex spinning.It effectively improved anti pilling grade of knitting sweater by increasing the number of yarnends. The pilling resistance of interlock stitch is the optimal, among cable stitch, tuck stitch,1*1rib stitch, interlock stitch and single jersey stitch.This paper analyzed different pilling standards and tested methods in different standards inorder to study the pilling properties of knitted sweater. Paper tested the related features of fivekinds of fiber and ten kinds of yarn, knitted more than20different kinds of structure of knittingsweater based on three different test methods respectively. The evaluation of pilling grade wasorthogonal design. The experimental results show that: under different test methods, the sameknitting sweater pilling grade is very different, showing the Martindale method <Random Rollingmethod <Pilling Box method. In the Martindale pilling method, yarn count is the most importantfactor affecting knitted sweater pilling grade. Select a thinner yarn can improve it. In the RandomRolling method, needle type is the most important factor affecting the pilling grades of knittingsweaters. In pilling box method, horizontal density of sweater is the most important factoraffecting its pilling grade. It can be appropriately increase by improving the density level.In conclusion, given priority to the pilling standards, this paper studied on the pillingperformance of knitting sweaters. Single factor experiments and orthogonal experiments were adopted to completely test the pilling performance of common used knitting sweaters and theadvisement for its pilling grade improvement was proposed. Apply the conclusion to the exportprocess will improve delivery rate and company image. It is also very helpful for the company’slong-term development.