Research On The Finishing Of Silk/Ramie Fabric By Cellulase

Ramie / silk knitted fabric kept not only ramie's cool style, but also silky luster and a certain degree of drape, which was high-grade summer fabric. However, due to the high crystallinity, rigidness and roughness of ramie fiber, it had strong prickle. Therefore, the elimination of prickle and handle improvement was the key to improve the performance of the ramie / silk knitted fabric.In this paper, Rudolf and LS-N30 were selected as the experimental enzymes from different cellulases, depending on the rate of fabric strength loss and reduction. The orthogonal test was used to determine the optimum parameters of the two cellulases. After enzyme treatment, the fabric became more fluffy, the amount of fabric hairiness reduced. Drape coefficient, air permeability, whiteness and capillary effect were improved to some extent. The prickle was basically eliminated and the flexibility was increased by finishing with silicone oil, which basically met the requirements of the wearing property. However, due to the structural characteristics of silicone oil itself, it easily brought the fabric yellowing, the fabric hydrophilic nature was reduced and the permeability was declined.Two kind of new environmentally friendly finishing processes, ultrasound and plasma, were combined with cellulase finishing. Ultrasound could increase the enzyme activity and help the hairs fall off from the fabric surface. After the plasma finishing, the fabric surface had fine lines and pits, and the friction between the fibers was increased, which could effectively improve the fabric strength losses.XRD results showed that the crystallization of the finished fabric slightly changed, and the mainly role was cellulase finishing, ultrasound and plasma almost had no effect on crystallization. The qualitative analysis of the infrared spectra showed that with the deepening of the treatment effect, more aldehyde groups were emerged, and more seriously the fibers were injured. Plasma treatment could reduce the number of aldehyde in the fibers, which indicated that plasma treatment could reduce the damage extent of fabric and effectively improve the fabric strength losses. From the point of dyeing results, the dyeing effect of fabric after enzyme finishing was better than before. Dyeing rate and K/S value of fabric were all increased. After softening treatment by silicone oil, the fabric surface would form a layer of low uniform refractive index resin film. Accordingly, it reduced the refractive index of the fabric, and the reflected light of the fabric surface was less than before, and the apparent color of the fabric was deep. After plasma treated, the fabric surface had many small pits and fine cracks which could increase the rate of dye adsorption. Experimental results showed that the fabric treated by plasma / Rudolf enzyme / silicone oil would have best dyeing results.