| The prick and roughness of ramie fabrics for summer shirts have already restrained the market promotion in some degree. The effects of cellulase treatment and cellulase plus softener treatment on prickle sensation and hand of ramie fabrics for summer shirts were studied.First of all, based on single factor and orthogonal experiments, a ramie fabric with yarn count of 28tex was treated by cellulase TZ25, and the tensile strength, prickle sensation, shear rigidity G and bending rigidity B of the original fabric and treated fabrics was tested, and the optimum technological conditions for cellulase TZ25 treatment were drown out as follows:the dosage of cellulose 2%(o.w.f), pH value 5.5, temperature 55℃, treatment time 50min, and the liquor ratio 10:1. The ramie fabric with yarn count of 28tex was treated under the optimum technological conditions, the biggest breaking strength loss was 54.09 percent, and the breaking strength was 324N by then, but breaking strength still accorded with the standard GB/T 21295-2007<Requirement of the garments’intrinsic quality>, in which breaking strength should be no less than 150N.Then, the ramie fabrics with yarn count 28tex,16tex,14tex and 10tex were all treated with cellulase TZ25 and cellulase TZ25 plus softener under right cellulase technological conditions. The ramie fabric with yarn count of 28tex was treated under optimum technological conditions. The ramie fabric with yarn count of 16tex was treated under no.3 experiment conditions:the dosage of cellulose 1.1%(o.w.f), pH value 5.5, the temperature 60℃, the time 40min, and the liquor ratio 20:1. The ramie fabrics with yarn count of 14tex and lOtex were treated under no.4 experiment technological conditions:the dosage of cellulose 1.1%(o.w.f), pH value 6.0, the temperature 65℃, the time 50min, and the liquor ratio was 25:1. Their properties such as breaking strength, tearing strength, wrinkle-resistant property, prickle sensation, fabric surface fiber, and fabric hand are compared among the original fabric, fabrics treated with cellulase TZ25 and fabrics treated with cellulase TZ25 followed by softener treatment.The results proved that breaking strength and tearing strength of the ramie fabric were decreased after cellulase treatment. The loss ratio of breaking strength of the ramie fabrics with yarn count 28tex,16tex,14tex and 10tex were respectively 54.1%,15.9%,10.4%and 9.9%. The loss ratio of tearing strength of the ramie fabrics with yarn count 28tex,16tex, 14tex and 10tex were respectively 31.7%,14.5%,13.4%and 12.3%. The wrinkle-resistant property was slightly improved after cellulase treatment. The results of prickle evaluation on the 16 kinds of treated ramie fabrics were analyzed by using variance analysis. The result of the variance analysis showed that the prickle evaluation standard was accordant, the results of prickle evaluation were reliable and stability. Compared to the original 28tex ramie fabric, the prickle of the treated ramie fabrics were weaker than the original fabric. The average diameter of fabric surface fibers was significantly decreased after cellulase treatment. The stiffness of fabric was decreased after cellulase treatment, the fabrics were becoming softer. But the fabric smoothness was decreased after cellulase treatment.After cellulase TZ25 treatment plus softener finishCT78E treatment, the loss ratio of breaking strength of the ramie fabrics with yarn count 28tex,16tex,14tex and 10tex were respectively 57.9%,20.8%,13.7% and 13.4%, while the loss ratio of tearing strength of these ramie fabrics were improved respectively to 134.5%,41.6%,55.2% and 167.0%.The tearing strength of ramie fabrics was improved greatly. The wrinkle-resistant property was further improved. The prickle was further weakened. The fabric stiffness was further decreased and fabric hand became softer. Fabric smoothness was also further improved.The diameters of fabric surface fibers were measured and the correlation between fabric surface fiber diameter and fabric prickle was analyzed in this thesis. It was found that there was heavy correlation between the number of coarse surface fiber and fabric prickle. The critical diameter for coarse surface fiber might be 26μm,36μm,41μm and 50μm, corresponding to different prickle levels respectively. |
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