Study On Reducing The Prickle Of Ramie Fabric

Ramie fabric has good characteristicswhich are broad, cool, breathable, light and antibacterial.However, due to the fiber of ramie is hard, the annoying ramie fabric-evoked pricklemake people feel uncomfortable in wearing process, which greatly limit its promotion in the field of clothing.The fabric-evoked prickleis happen when the fabric has certain density of hard hairiness on its surface and people contact with them. Nowadays the evaluation method offabric-evoked prickle is mostly subjective, but its change to objective method is an inevitable trend. To reduce the fabric-evoked prickle, it mainly focused on thesurfacehairiness of fabric, now mostly through physical and biochemical method to reduce hairiness quantity or hairiness stiffnessin the finishing process.This paper discusses several objective evaluation method of fabric-evoked prickle. To analyze theramie fabric-evoked prickle’saffect factors from the point of the fabric structure, which can provides some thoughts for fabric structure design to reduce ramie fabric-evoked prickle.Choose ecology, effective enzyme preparation for ramie fabric finishing, and the process conditions are optimized.Specific researches as follows:(1)Do subjective and objective test on ramie fabric to evaluate its prickle sensation, to verify the applicability of fabric single compression tester on evaluating ramie fabric-evoked prickle objective.(2)Analyze the structure of ramie fabric samples and the relationship between fabric structure and its prickle sensation, from the point of view of the fabric structure to put forward methods to reduce ramie fabric-evoked prickle.(3)Do pretreatment and mercerized finishing on the ramie fabric, focus on enzyme treatment for ramie fabric to reduce its prickle sensation, use four kinds of enzyme to do the treatment;screen out the enzyme for single factor test and orthogonal test, optimize the best finishing process.Done a series of research above, the study found as follows:(1)Using fabric single compression properties to represent the fabric prickle sensation is a promising method, the measured index pressure value of hairiness boundary is highly correlated with the value of fabric prickle sensation, but after verification, this instrument is only suitable for measuring the higher yarn’s fineness, thickness type of ramie fabric, for several small light thin fabric, it is not applicable.(2)For medium thickness type of ramie fabric, the fabric single compression property tester measured hairiness part boundary pressure value and fabricprickle sensation value has the following fitting linear relationship:prickle sensation value=1.908+4.008by boundary pressure (cN).(3) For pure ramie woven fabric, yarn fineness is the most important factor which effects its fabric prickle sensation among the structure parameters. Pure ramie woven fabric is thin, the smallerprickle sensation they have. Use thin yarn or blended yarn can greatly reduce the prickle sensation of ramie fabric. Use the different fiber for warp and weft yarn in woven fabric can effectively reduce the fabric prickle sensation.(4)Cellulose enzyme can effectively reduce ramie fabric prickle sensation. Due to the acidic condition itself great damage the ramie fabric, it better to choose neutral cellulose enzyme for ramie fabric finishing. In this research, optimum process conditions for the cellulose enzyme named CellusoftCR which is from Novozyme are as bellow:the enzyme dosage is0.75%(O.W.F), the temperature is45℃, the processing time is40min.