On The Theory Of Clothing Craft In Kao Gong Ji

Kao Gong Ji is an extant earliest technology monograph of our country, which has the pivotal status and value in our country and even in the world science technology history. It has mainly recorded the manufacture standard and the manufacture craft of the utensil of governmental handicraft industry of the pre-Qin period, and has elaborated some important principia and ideology of design, which are containing the strong science and the humanities spirit. There are two kinds of techniques of "tanning the leather" and "dyeing the textile" in Kao Gong Ji which mainly described the dyeing, the tanning and the technique of processing the silks, and which all have relationship with the clothing material. The article takes the clothing material of Kao GongJi as main clue. It gradually reveals the mystical veil of the clothing culture and the clothing technique of the pre-Qin period through the dissertation of the clothing material's development process, the clothing material's manufacture technology and the cultural connotation of the clothing craft.The Content of "Mr Bao","Mr Wei","Mr Qiu","Mr Kuang","Mr Mang" in Kao Gong Ji have separately recorded clothing materials of the leather, hemp, silk and so on. These clothing materials are the material base of clothing and which has provided an objective condition for the clothing appearance changing, which become the constituent of the clothing culture. So in fact, the dissertation of the clothing material's development process in Kao GongJi manifests the development of the clothing culture and the clothing material's manufacture technology are the constituent of the clothing craft. The article has three structures. It first takes ancient book and Ancient relic as the main argument to discuss the development of the clothing materials of the leather, hemp, silk and so on in the pre-Qin period. It then studies the clothing craft of the tanning, the dyeing and the technique of processing the silks, which reveals the usability and the scientific characteristic of the technique of the clothing craft. It finally concludes the cultural connotation of the clothing craft, which contain clothing rank, the concept of 'Yin Yang and Wu Xing', the idea of 'harmony between human and nature'. The article unifies the culture, the science and technology to conducts the research, which reveals the clothing craft and clothing culture which contain in Kao Gong Ji.The article tries to use the dialectical methods to examine the usability and the scientific characteristic of the technique of the clothing craft which contain in Kao Gong Ji. But we must to know that the purpose of studying the clothing craft of Kao Gong Ji is not only to know the ancient science and technology and clothing culture, the more important thing is to inherit and develop, especially the systemic modes of thinking and the valuable spirit of exploring the nature.