The Research On The Efficacy, Action Mechanism And Application Of Chinese Traditional Medicine In Cosmetics

The transdermal absorption of cosmetic actives has become the research hotspot recently. While the chemical compounds have toxic and side-effect, the research in cosmetic industry has turn to natural plants gradually, so as the transdermal enhancers. To seek for novel, safe and effective transdermal enhancers, this thesis compare the physicochemical property, safety and transdermal enhancement efficacy of Chinese Angelica, Syzyqium aromaticum, Savia miltiorrhiza and Cinnamomun cassia to discuss the transdermal enhancement mechanism and screen out the best Chinese traditional medicine to apply it on cosmetic formulation.The results are as follows:1.The four kinds of Chinese traditional medicine are natural and safe proved by Red Blood Cell Test which demonstrated that the Chinese traditional medicine has a lower level in irritation than positive control Azone obviously.2.Based on the skin model of the guinea pig and the tested actives of organic acid (Vc derivatives), sugar (TREHALOSE), peptide (HYDROLYZED OAT PROTEIN) and flovane (KANZOU FURABONOIDO), Franz Diffusion Cell Test has demonstrated that Chinese Angelica is the best transdermal enhaner, and the efficacy is increasing with the increased dosage of enhancer. With azone as the positive control, the transdermal efficacy is : 0.8% Chinese Angelica extract≥1% Azone, Chinese Angelica extract > Syzyqium aromaticum extract > Savia miltiorrhiza extract≥positive control(Azone)> Cinnamomun cassia extract.3.Based on the skin model of the guinea pig, the efficacy of Chinese Angelica extract, Syzyqium aromaticum extract, Savia miltiorrhiza extract and Cinnamomun cassia extract on organic acid, sugar, peptide and flovane have been tested by Franz Diffusion Cell Test. The results showed that there is no structure-efficacy relationship between Chinese traditional medicine and the actives.4.Based on the skin model of the guinea pig, Franz Diffusion Cell Test has demonstrated that the transdermal quantity was increasing over time, but the speed slowed down after 12 hours. And the molecular weight of the actives was the main influence factor after the permeability channel was opened.5.Based on the skin model of the guinea pig and compared with the blank and positive control Azone, the differences of sliced skin were observed by HE. The results demonstrated that the cutin layer began to fall off in different degree after the treatment of 1% Chinese Angelica solution and 1% Azone. Meanwhile, the obscission of the skin with 1% Chinese Angelica solution was more obviously. The results showed that the enhancement mechanism of Chinese traditional medicine is structure-changed theory. The Chinese traditional medicine acted on the cutin and accelerated the obscission of cutin. Meanwhile, with the hydrophilic and oleophylic group, the Chinese traditional medicine was easy to pass into the skin and open the permeability channel to make the absorption of actives.6.The physicochemical properties of Chinese Angelica were all meet the cosmetic standards. Meanwhile, 3-month in vivo test has showed that 1% Chinese Angelica extract could improve the whitening efficacy of actives better than the one without Chinese Angelica extract.This paper researched on the efficacy, action mechanism and application of Chinese Traditional Medicine in Cosmetics, and the results provided theory reference to the screening and application of Chinese Traditional Medicine. Besides transdermal enhancement efficacy, Chinese Traditional Medicine has other beauty efficacy as well as its safty feature, so Chinese Traditional Medicine has a promising future in cosmetics.