| With the development of society and civilization, people more and more focus on the environment and health of their own. Textile is in the first place in people's basic needs- cloths ,food, house and transportation. People have recognized the pollution and harmness caused by textile in the process of manufacturing and wearing. Softness agent is often used in traditional softness finishing of cotton fabrics, which is harm to people's health and causes seriously environmental pollution. It is of significance to develop environmental-friendly finishing techniques of cotton fabric. Enzymatic treatments are considered to be one of the efficiency methods that possibly substitute the Chemical. Enzymes are biocatalysts which have the advantage, such as moderate reacting conditions, high catalyzing efficiency and selectivity, and no pollution etc.. The application of enzymes in textile industry is long-standing, which involves in pretreatment, finishing and dying processes, and nowadays it is playing more and more important role. This thesis mainly described the processing of finishing on cotton fabric, the effect of physical or mechanical properties as well as heat and wet-comfortable properties, and the mechanism of cellulase on cotton fibre, etc.. Using the theory of Fuzzy sets and Expert system, this paper evaluated wearability of fabric treated by cellulase.At first, in this subject, Cellulase L and WM were selected to treat cotton fabrics for softness finishing. We studied the characters of cellulase, optimized technological conditions. The results show optimized technological conditions, Cellusoft L: pH value =5.0 Temperature T=50℃ Time t=50min Concentration of cellulase (owf) =4% L.R=1 : 20; Cellusoft WM: pH value =5.5 Temperature T=50℃ Time t=60min Concentration of cellulase (owf) =4% L.R=1 : 20. And the Gray Correlation Theory is applied to analysis of the processing parameters in cotton treatments by cellulase. The results show that the factors influencing the weight loss of the fabric, from large to small, are treating time, pH value, temperature and the concentration of cellulase. The Gray Correlation analysis plays an important role in determining the parameters of cotton treatments by cellulase.This thesis systemly discussed the physical and mechanical properties, heat and wet-comfortable properties of cotton fabric treated by cellulase. The results show that the benefits of cellulase treatment include prevention of fuzz and pills, increased smoothness and softness, increased luster and superior color brightness, improvedhandle and drapeability, and fashionable wash-down effects. In addition, the loss in strength of fabrics is less than 10% if the weight loss is confined in 3%-5% after cellulase treatment, and it is still considered acceptable for use performance.In the process of cotton fibres treated with cellulase, the enzymatic treatments cause significant increasement in coppor number, so the enzymatic treatment creates obvious chemical damages of cotton, and the result is consistent with the result from IR. Since the percentage crystallinity and accessibility of cotton were slightly altered by cellulase treatment, it appears likely that cellulase enzyme attacks the fibres at an accessible cellulose chain on the crystallite surface. By SEM, it was observed that cotton fibres treated with cellulase are developed of cracks in the axis direction, and increased surface peeling and large pores. It is advantageous to the useful performance of fabrics treated with cellulase. In addition, UV and HLPC further confirm that the endo component first clips a cellulose chain by cleaving internal glucosidic bonds; this is followed by the production of cellobiose from the nonreducing end of the chains by the exocomponent. The final step would be production of glucose from cellobiose by cellobiase.This paper also used Fuzzy sets and Expert system to develop a tool for evaluating the whole properties of fabrics. This system is an intellectual computer procedure, which has great flexibility. It ca... |
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