The Specification And Design And After The Dyeing Process On The Style Of Cashmere And Woolen Products

The thesis introduces the basic capability of the cashmere fiber, assessment method of the fabric handle, the status of the cashmere woolen processing and the problem of the producing in the factory. It also gives the importance and the practical significance of researching the cashmere handle, analyzes the key factors of affecting the handle and works out the main method and means of the studying. It takes the designing and the finishing techniques as the important research that works on the cashmere character and hand; with contrasting several different parameters and methods of the designing and the finishing, it finds out some relationship between the reason and the result.In the realistic producing, it is difficult to estimate the handle by the apparatus testing on-line for a lot of reason from the subjective and objective. During the research some improvement has been made on the traditional method enhancing the veracity and the oneness of the subjective estimating.As the key-point of the designing, the weave and the tightness is very important to the final fabric, the interleaving and the floating of the weave changes the softness and the elastic, the different parameters also guide the difficult and easy level of the finishing in teasing and change the performance of the cloth.FAST system testing method is made to show the fabric style and the sewing performance by testing the special physical indices. 18 pieces of cashmere woolen cloth have been experimented to get the parameters such as surface thickness, extensibility, bending rigidity, shearing rigidity, formability and so on, then the control chart of each fabric namely "fingerprint" has been formed to represent the fabric style and illustrates the relation between designing, finishing and cashmere fabric handle.The finishing process is of great importance for the cloth. It must be carried out by long process flow with many kinds of machines and has to be adjusted according to different products and requirements. It shows that the teasing, the preshrinking and the decating are the most important process in the finishing.At the end, some conclusions have been made. Two kinds of broken twill with the same parameters has the near style by the identical finishing, it is also feasible to be made for the short and orderly woolen. Because the long float length of the yarn in the weave the herringbone is not fit to the short and orderly woolen. The softener has greatly applied in the finishing, but it causes the strength down deeply and should be not used to the cashmere short and orderly woolen.