| With the improvement of living standard and diversified lifestyle, the requirements for the performance and the style of clothing textile become more and more higher by the customers. However, it can be true by fibers blending technology.In order to meet the demand of market requirement and enhance the consciousness of environmental protection, PTT and PLA fibers were chosen as the blending materials firstly in this thesis. Both of them are synthetic fibers and have low moisture absorption and serious static, although they have many advantages. Rayon was used to blend with them to offset the shortages. 10 kinds of PTT/PLA/Rayon blended yarns with different blending ratios were designed, and a series of performance were tested. The results showed that, the evenness of yarns with two components was better than that with three components. And the thicker the yarn was, the higher the hairiness index was.10 kinds of fabrics with different blending ratios which corresponding to the yarns were woven for testing the performance and discussing the influence of PTT fiber, PLA fiber, rayon fiber and their contents on the wearing performance of the fabrics.After studying on dyeing and finishing processes, the results showed that the value of PH would be noticed. While the value of PH is neutral, the water temperature could be higher, and when it's greater than 7, it could be lower. One-bath and two-step dyeing process of disperse/reactive dyes shall be taken. During the whole dyeing processes, the temperature had to be lower than 110℃, the temperature of heat set treatment was suggested to be 120℃, and it last less than 30 seconds.The performance of the 10 kinds of fabrics was test and analyzed, it showed that they all had good abrasion-resistant color-fastness. The performance of anti-fuzzing and pilling was decreasing with the increasing of PTT and PLA fibers content and was increasing with the increasing of rayon fiber content. The performance of recovery from creasing and tensile elastic recovery was increasing with the increasing of PTT and PLA fibers content and the decreasing of rayon fiber, and that the effect of PTT fiber on the performance was very significant. The moisture vapor transmission was increasing with the increasing of rayon content and the decreasing of PTT fiber content. The moisture vapor transmission performance of PLA fiber was better than PTT fiber. By using fuzzy integrated judging method of fuzzy mathematics, the fabric had the best wearability with the content of PTT fiber 40%, PLA fiber 30% and the rayon 30%.Finally, 13 kinds of fabrics with different blending ratios were designed. There were 5 series noted as A, B, C, D and E of these fabrics which blended with PTT, PLA, Cooldry, triangular heteroclite polyester fiber, cotton fiber, flax fiber and so on. All the fabric samples were tested with FAST system and other testers and studied by fuzzy integrated judging method and fuzzy clustering analysis. The results showed that, (1) Fabric density of warp and weft and woven construction had important pole on fabric compress, and the extension was affected by weave construction, under the same situation; (2) The thicker the yarn was, the bigger the bending rigidity was. The bending rigidity of synthenic fibers of polyester, PTT and triangular heteroclite polyester fiber was bigger than rayon. And the property of fibers with heteroclite cross-section fiber was bigger than that with circle cross-section; (3) The smaller the density of weft was, the better the performance of recovery from creasing was. (4) The performance of moisture vapor transmission was improved with adding triangular heteroclite polyester fiber. And the performance was better when the tightness was decreasing. (5) The performance of anti-fuzzing and pilling would be better when the woven construction was tighter. (6) There was a direct relationship between fabric drape and bending rigidity. The smaller the bending rigidity was, the better the drape was. (7) Most fibers with heteroclite cross-section had better vapor permeability than that with circle cross-section. From fuzzy mathematics, three-variety of fabrics with different fabric styles could be classified, e.g., the first-variety of fabrics, A2, E4, E5, B and C series with good fabric rigidity, the second -variety of fabrics, A1, E1, E3 and D series with soft handle, the third-variety of fabrics, E2, with good rigidity and high thickness and with biggest differences from the others. The result obtained from the fuzzy integrated judging method showed that D1 had the best comprehensive wearability and E5 had the worst. |
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