| In the trend of back-to-nature and health caring consciousness, fabrics made of natural fibers have been drawing people's more attention. Hemp fabrics are welcomed for its characteristics of natural bacteriostasis, coolness, shielding ultraviolet, preventing static and heat-resistant. However, they are coarse, bad elastic and easy to wrinkle. Tencel fibers have the excellent comfort, strong intensity, good lustre and pendency. So the blended yarn of both can make use of each other's advantages to enhance the spinnability, improve the wearability and the fabric style.In this research, five sorts of hemp and Tencel fiber were prepared with different blended ratio (17/83, 30/70, 50/50, 70/30, 83/17 in hemp/Tencel, respectively). The process of the spinning and knitting, the properties of the yarns and the fabrics, and the distribution of both kind fibers in the yarn were determined with these five sorts of yarns. The results were shown below:1. Seven properties including cv value of yarn levelness, snicks, slubs, cotton neps, hairiness, breaking tenacity and cv value of strength of above blended yarns were measured and then analyzed by fuzzy decision. The result showed that of five blended yarns, yarn with ratio of 17/83 in hemp/Tencel has best quality, followed by yarns with ratio of 30/70, 50/50, 70/30 and 83/17. Fuzzy cluster analysis revealed that the higher the value of cut set λ, the more similar the classification among these five blended yarns. According to the overall evaluation the properties of four blended yarns (ratio of 17/83, 30/70, 50/50, 70/30 in hemp/Tencel) are similar and superior, while the property of blended yarn with ratio of 83/17 in hemp/Tencel is inferior.2. Five properties of wearability including bended rigidity, draping property, abrasion resistance of yarns, crease recovery property, capillary effect of blending knitted fabrics were measured and analyzed by fuzzy decision. The results showed that of five blending fabrics, fabric from yarn with ratio of 17/83 in hemp/Tencel has best quality, followed by fabrics from yarns with ratio of 30/70, 50/50, 70/30 and 83/17. Fuzzy cluster analysis revealed that different values of cut set λ can bring different classification in similarity among these five blended fabrics. According to the overall evaluation the wearability of three blending fabrics (yarns with ratio of 17/83, 30/70, 50/50 in hemp/Tencel) are similar and superior, while the other two blending fabrics (yarns with ratio of 70/30, 83/17 in hemp/Tencel) are inferior.3. In conclusion, considered the results of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation on wearability of blended yarns and blended fabrics as well as the fabric styles, the overall properties of blended fabrics coming from blended yarns with ratio of 17/83, 30/70 and 50/50 in hemp/Tencel are similar and superior, while properties of blended fabrics from blended yarns with ratio of 70/30 and 83/17 in hemp/Tencel are inferior.4. Based on the observation of transversal and vertical structure of the above five sorts of blended yarns, the relationship between structure of yarns and wearability of the fabrics were discussed and the findings coincided with the result of the above fuzzy comprehensive evaluation. |
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