Study On The Multi-fiber Combination And The Wearability And Style Of The Woven Fabrics

With the progress of the society and the development of science and technology, people put forward higher requirement and standard on the fabric. The multi-fiber compound fabric can own various advantages of the material and make up for the defect of single textile material. Through taking advantage of each other's strengths, this kind of fabric can meet people's demand in wearability and style needs. Recently, the multi-composition fabric is becoming the mainstream of textile research and development. But there is little research about the multi- fiber compound fabric's wearability and style characteristics in domestic. So the theoretical foundation is shortage for the development of the compound fabric.Combining with the design theory of the wool fabric and the linnet fabric, in this paper, multi-composition fabrics with simulated wool or linnet characteristic were woven. And their wearability and style characteristics were measured and studied. Wearability test mainly includes the fabric's tensile property, bursting performance, air permeability, drapability performance, crease recovery performance and so on. In order to study the fabric's basic mechanical properties under low-load condition, the KES-F instrument was selected to carry out bending test, shear test, tensile test, surface friction test and compression test. At the same time, the multiple regression analysis method, the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation, the main factor analysis and cluster analysis mathematical method were used to establish mathematical models and to analyze the relationship between the components parameters of fabric wearability and style in order to provide more theory and practical base for the researches. On the basis of above work, following conclusions can be gotten:1 Fabrics in tests were woven by polyester deformation silk, polyester and sticky composite yarn, hygroscopic perspirate yarn, cotton type metal-coated core-spun yarns, high shrinkage yarn. In the fabric's wearability tests, the analysis evaluation results can be included as following: in drawing, bursting, drapability performance tests, linnet fabric's performance is better than the one of the linen fabric. Linen fabric's air permeability is better than linnet fabric. In drawing, bursting, crease recovery performance tests, the result of the wool fabric is better than the one of the wool-like fabric. By multiple regression analysis, following results can be gotten: linnet fabric's drawing performance, bursting performance, air permeability, and crease recovery performance will be better with the increasing of the uvioresistant yarn's content. DTY and hygroscopic perspirate yarn have little influence on fabrics'wearability. In wool-like fabrics, the influence of the high shrinkage yarn on the fabrics'wearability is not obvious.2 Through comprehensive fuzzy evaluation on the 14 kinds of fabric performances, the analysis evaluation results can be included as following: (1) The comprehensive using properties of the multi-component fabric are widely superior than the single component fabric. The fabric can make full use of every component and achieve better comprehensive performance by increasing different components. (2)The fabric with longer float and less organization points has good performance. (3) Analysis the fabrics'influence factors in material and found that the linen-like fabric has the property as following: hygroscopic perspiration yarn>TR > DTY > FDY. The wool-like fabric has the property as following: TR>W/L/T/T > Cotton type metal-coated core-spun yarns >High shrinkage yarn.3 The style and performance indicators of fabrics have a close contact with the fabric specifications. Composition of raw materials, yarn linear density have an obvious effect on the tensile properties of the fabric; through analysing 16 kinds of basic mechanical properties indicators of fabric style test by main factor analysis 3 main factors of wool-like fabrics can be obtained, e.g. stiffness factor, flat degree factor and fullness factor, and the most important factor is the stiffness. Style evaluation of linen-like fabric are characterized by four main factors, e.g. thick fullness factor, stiffness factor, flat degree of factor and the flexible factors, and the most important factor is the thick fullness factor.4 Through clustering analyse the test results of the fabric style: the style of 8 # fabric which made of DTY, Anti-ultraviolet, 9 # fabric which made of DTY, hygroscopic perspirate yarn, Anti-ultraviolet, cotton type metal-coated core-spun yarns are close with the flax fabric.1# fabric which made of DTY, RT, 4# fabric which made of high shrinkage yarn's style is similar to wool fabric. Through analysis the fabric style's distance matrix, it can be found that 4# fabric and wool fabric's style are very close, yarn material of 4 # fabric's is high shrinkage yarn, in other words, high shrinkage fabric and wool fabric's style are very similar.