Study On The Handle And Performance Evaluation And New Product Development Of T/R Wool-like Fabric

Using polyester and viscose to produce wool-like fabric,this technology is not only has the good performance of wool fabrics and overcomes the shortcoming of wool fabrics,but also has some special properties of synthetic fabrics,even some characteristics have surpassed the wool fabric. Therefore, this paper is mainly studies the handle of polyester and viscose blended or interweaved fabric, simultaneously,the conclusion can be used and guided the products development of new wool-like fabrics.This subject was supported by Zhe Jiang Zhong Fang Sintanlon Textile and Technology Co.,Ltd. and Shao Xing Bai Rui printing and dyeing Co.,Ltd.,on the one hand,it firstly analyzed the weave properties of 55 different wool-like fabrics and 3 different pure worsted fabrics, such as raw materials,yarn arrangements, yarn linear density,blend ratioes,weave,yarn twist and direction, yarn shrinkage, fabric count and weight,then using the FAST system to test physical and mechanical performance of 58 different kinds of fabrics,it is respectively tested the compression performance, bending performance, tensile performance, shear performance, formability, relaxation shrinkage,hygral expansion and wet crease recovery performance. Then using SPSS software, using multiple regression method and the main factor analysis method and cluster method to study the handle of wool-like fabrics.On the other hand, comparing with the handle of wool-like fabrics and pure wool fabrics and judging whether the handle accomplish a distinct wool-like effect quality. According to the result of the study on the handle of wool-like fabrics, the new products are designed and combined with its dyeing technological characteristics,the researches can be carried on to study the dyeing process of preshrinking,presetting, alkali treating and dyeing and their influence on the handle of wool-like fabrics.At last, comparied the handle with greige and its finished goods and compared the handle with four new finished goods and the pure wool fabrics.The main research contents, creative achievements and conclusions of this paper includes four aspects.(1)Based on multivariate linear regression theory to study the handle of wool-like fabrics and establishing the multivariate regression equations between the handle and its related weave parameters,then using the mathematical law to decide whether the multiple regression equations and their various parameters are significantly influence and revealing the influence factors.(2)According to the rotating factor loading array and its factor expression, using main factor analysis method and getting the ten main factors of wool-like fabrics,they are soft factor,warp elongation factor, weft elongation factor, shrinkage factor, crease recovery factor, fleeciness factor,fullness factror,surface thickness factor,massiveness factor and weft shrinkage factor,accounding to the expression of coefficient factor score,it can calculate the comprehensive score and rank of every factor.(3)Using the Ward cluster method to divide the 55 different kinds of wool-like fabrics into four categories,the first category includes 13 pieces of fabrics and the main characteristics are soft and light weight and have small grams per square meter. The second category includes six kinds of fabrics and the main characteristics are massive and stiff and heavy.The third category includes 31 different fabrics,at the same time,they have no obvious characteristic,the handle of this category is between the first and second category,furthermore,they are the main varieties of wool-like fabrics. The main characteristics of the fourth category are thick, mainly including five different fabrics. At a time,this paper respectively studies the handle of each category of wool-like fabrics and comparies the handle of each category of wool-like fabrics with the 3 different pure wool fabrics.It is proved that the warp and weft bending stiffness and bending length of wool-like fabrics are higher than the pure wool fabrics's,so the conclusion is that the pure wool fabrics are soft,however,oppositely, the handle of wool-like fabrics, are stiffer than pure wool fabrics. The last but the most important thing is that the elastic elongation of wool-like fabrics are bigger than the pure wool fabrics,as a result of core spun yarn of spandex is used in the wool-like fabric and has excellent elasticity.But there are no evident difference between other properties. (4) For four new products,after the process of dyeing and finishing,the result is that the dyeing process of preshrinking,presetting, alkali treating and dyeing process have a great important influence on the handle of wool-like fabric, especially after alkali treating process,the warp and weft bending stiffness and bending length are becoming smaller,so the finished goods have soft handle.