Comparison And Analysis Of Different Fabric Style Testing Methods

Fabric style is one of the important indicators for evaluating the quality of textiles.Different fabric styles determine the final use of fabrics and the quality of garments,and are also an important factor affecting consumers'choices of clothing.The test conditions,test principles and test indicators of several different fabric style testing testers in the world are different,but there should be a certain correlation between the indicators.The purpose of this paper is to compare and analyze different fabric style testing methods,and focus on promoting the understanding of the new fabric style tester PhabrOmeter through correlation analysis,so as to provide a reference for scientific selection of fabric style testing methods and optimization of fabric style.Therefore,this subject collected 19 kinds of pure cotton shirt fabrics with different structural parameters,and used five finishing processes:soft finishing,non-iron finishing,liquid ammonia soft finishing,liquid ammonia non-iron finishing,and liquid ammonia moisture cross-linking finishing.Then using KES-FB test system,FAST test system,PhabrOmeter fabric style tester,YG541L digital fabric crease elasticity tester,LLY-02 fabric crease recovery tester and other testers to test the mechanical indexs and hand value of the samples.The correlation analysis method was used to compare and analyze the test methods and evaluation indicators of the above five testers.It was found that the three hand feeling characteristic factors Y₁-Y₃ of the PhabrOmeter fabric style tester represent the compression resilience properties,bending and shearing properties,and surface friction of the fabrics,respectively.The FAST test system can replace the KES-FB test system to test the compression properties of fabrics,and the test is simpler,but the bending properties test results are not as accurate as the KES-FB test system.Comparing and analyzing the test results of the folding methods(horizontal method and vertical method)and the Ph-ring method of PhabrOmeter fabric style tester,it was found that the test method of Ph-ring method of PhabrOmeter fabric style tester is closer to fabric practical loading mode during the usage compared with folding method.It can evaluate fabric wrinkle recovery more comprehensively and more accurately.Based on the correlation analysis,the naming of the three basic hand feeling characteristic factors of the PhabrOmeter fabric style tester was further discussed,and it was found that the first hand feeling characteristic factor was"Resilience",the second proposed name was"Suppleness",and the third was"Smoothness".The stepwise linear regression method was used to establish an evaluation model for the fabric style of pure cotton shirt fabrics.The regression equation of the Y₂ index had the best fitting effect,and the fitting degree was as high as 0.952,followed by the wrinkle recovery coefficient,the drape index,the Y₁ index and the Y₃ index.To sum up,the systematic evaluation of different fabric style testing methods,so as to evaluate fabrics more accurately,provides scientific theoretical support for product development,process optimization,product evaluation,etc.The meaning and naming of the test indicators of the PhabrOmeter fabric style tester are discussed to further provide theoretical support for the development and application of the tester;Establish a regression equation between physical and mechanical indicators and style values,find out the internal relationship between the two,guide the design and production of fabrics,and provide quantitative methods for enterprises to develop and design fabrics and quality control.