A Study And Application Of Style Evaluation Models Of Wool And Wool-like And Suede-like Nap Fabrics

Fabric style is one of the most important factors which affect wear property of textiles. It is an effective and important approach for the textile design and product performance improvement to study the influencing factors of fabric style and evaluate style and property systemically and quantitatively. 115 four kind of wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics are selected as sample to analyze their main specification parameters, and such instrument as FAST system, YG541A crease recovery tester, YG811 fabric drape meter, YG(B)461D numerical type fabric permeability instrument, FA1004 fabric weight tester an so on are chosen to measure 31 property parameters of the samples. Style evaluation models of wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics are studied and established with principal factor analysis method, and the influencing factors of fabric style are also studied with correlation analysis method. Applying the research results to the design and manufacture of wool and wool-like suede-like nap fabrics, the fabric style and the performance can be optimized or improved.(1) Based on the 31 property parameters, fabric style is studied by making use of principal factor analysis method. First, in accordance with loading coefficient and proportion, the number of principal factor is chosen by the cumulative proportion. Second, positive or negative sign of loading is chosen by the positive or negative effects of the principal factor's primary determinant. Then total style evaluation loading coefficient is calculated according to proportion of the principal factor. Finally, the principal factor and total evaluation model matrix of fabric style is established, which is given as Z=KY. As one of the primary contributions of this paper, the model evaluates fabric style quantitatively and provides quantitative calculation methods for the appraisement of the congener fabric.(2) In order to solve the plentiful and fussy mathematical operation of principal factor analysis, corresponding visualized application is programmed through VB and Matrix of Matlab. The application has been directly adopted to evaluate four kinds of the wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics, having common applicability and continued use value. It supplies the achievement of quantitative evaluation on fabric style with a fast and exact means.(3) Through the visual application, 6 principal factors of wool or blended fabric, wool-like fabric are obtained, so are the 5 factors of warp suede-like, weft suede-like, washable velvet fabric. The principal factor or total evaluation score and ranking can also be calculated quantitatively, and fingerprint chart drawn, the superiority or inferiority of fabric style and property judged. In a word, it can express the fabric style characteristics systemically and objectively.(4) By making use of the correlation analysis method to study fabric style, the relations among property parameters, fabric style and specification parameters are founded successfully. Aiming at wool and wool-like and suede-like nap fabrics, this paper first establishes the combined form between property parameters and specification parameters; then according to the magnitude of correlation coefficient, the frequency of the highly or prominently correlated factor, screens out the highly or prominently correlated factors of specification parameters affecting fabric performance or fabric style to assist fabric design and production. The research result shows that the weight of fabric, shrinkages of warp and weft are the most important influencing factors of fabric style.(5) With the guidance of fabric style evaluation model and the effect rule of specification parameters on fabric style, such wool fabric as fancy suiting and Hopsack, such wool-like fabric as satin-back colorful suiting and double elastic fancy wool-like fabric are designed and manufactured, both of which are tested to achieve ideal effect. This practice shows that fabric style evaluation model and the analysis of correlative factors is an effective and practical approach,which could be taken advantage of to guide and optimize fabric style design.