Study On Anti-pilling Finishing Technology Of Cashmere Sweater

Cashmere fiber is a kind of valuable textile fiber, internationally known as "soft gold " and " fiber diamond" reputation, it has thin fineness, soft and satiny feel,warm and good color and luster. The cashmere sweater made of cashmere sweater isnot only comfortable, soft to the touch, but also elegant color, full surface. So itsunique fabric style is by the broad masses of consumers love. But the pilling problemof cashmere sweater has always plagued the vast number of consumers and producers,not only affect the fabric handle, appearance and performance, even directly affect theconsumer’s purchase desire and consumption. In this paper, we study and explore thepilling mechanism and process of cashmere sweater, chose two kinds of mainfinishing agent to do a large number of experiment. The aim is to commit and developeffective anti-pilling finishing technology for cashmere sweater.In this test, the cashmere sweater samples for testing are provided by NingxiaHongda Cashmere Products Company Limited. The yarn on the fabric is17.8×2Texplied yarn, the wale density of the fabric is77loops/10cm and the course density is96.5loops/10cm, and the fabric structure is plain weft knitted. The test sample fabricis produced after felting, ironing finishing in the enterprise. By the test, the pillingnumber of the cashmere sweater fabric is measured average around115, and thepilling grade is2-3according to standard sample photos, so the fabric anti-pillingperformance is not ideal. Observation of the SEM photos taken from the electronmicroscope that cashmere sweater pilling process can be divided into four process:fuzz formation—fuzz tangle roll tight—forming pill ball—pill ball off. Combinedwith the actual production and literature data, develop the cashmere sweater anti–pilling finishing technology: cashmere sweater→impregnated with finishing liquid→soaking and rolling process→preliminary drying and baking.With SXA-amino silicone elastomer as main finishing agent for anti-pillingfinishing of cashmere sweater, We do single factors test on the concentration ofmain finishing agent, temperature of finishing liquid, soaking time and bakingtemperature, then use the orthogonal experimental method to optimize the finishingprocess. With the fabric pilling number as indicator, it is determined anti-pillingfinishing technology which is taken SXA-amino silicone as finishing agent, that:concentration of SXA-amino silicone elastomer in finishing liquid is25g/L, softeningagent is3g/L, temperature of finishing liquid is50℃, soaking finish time is45min and the drying temperature is85℃, time about20min; PH value of liquid is6-7, bathratio is1:20, two dip two rolling and rolling remnant rate is120%. After finishing, thefabric pilling performance was better, feel was slightly hard, and shiny surface darkena bit, anti-pilling grade increased a level.Using HA-soft80polyethylene wax emulsion as main finishing agent foranti-pilling finishing of cashmere sweater, through the single factor tests andorthogonal experiment method, with the fabric pilling number as indicator, it candetermine anti pilling-finishing process by HA-soft80polyethylene wax emulsion asthe main finishing agent, that: concentration of HA-soft80polyethylene wax emulsionin finishing liquid is30g/L, softening agent is3g/L, temperature of finishing liquid is65℃, soaking finish time is20min and the drying temperature is130℃, time about5min; PH value of liquid is6-7, bath ratio is1:20, two dip two rolling and rollingremnant rate is75%. After finishing, the fabric pilling performance was improved,handle and surface gloss did not change basically, and the anti-pilling grade increaseda level.Fabric fastness, comfort, surface color, fastness to washing and other indexeswere tested after cashmere sweater anti-pilling finishing, conclude: cashmere sweaterfabric anti-pilling finishing has little change of the fabric bursting strength, whiteness,breathable, and flexible. The finishing has no effect on the wearability of cashmeresweater. At the same time, the anti-pilling property of cashmere sweater byanti-pilling finishing decreased rarely after washed several times (20times).According to the purpose of cashmere sweater, the wearability of cashmeresweater before and after taking anti-pilling finishing is evaluated by usingfuzzy-integrative evaluation method. The order for wearability performance of threefabrics is: fabric finished by HA-soft80polyethylene wax emulsion> by SXA-aminosilicone elastomer>fabric of without finishing.