The Research And Design Of Pants’ Pattern To Fit The Adult Femal,Basing Upon The Special Morphology Of Wasit,Abdomen And Hip

The figure of Human is different from each other. This difference is determined by genetic,physiological structure, ethnic, regional, acquired habits and other aspects, divided into standard body size and special shape, roughly.But,in the market,the garments are designed and sewed by the standard body size.Thus it makes the special body crowd need the beautiful and comfortable clothing. In the "customer is God" era, to respect " people-oriented", to meet the needs of consumers is a designer’s first consideration. It makes the designing of clothes scientific, humanistic, reasonable, fashionable. The standard body trousers’research has been perfected and matured,but the special figure trousers’research is relatively weak. Because the special morphology of wasit,abdomen and hip,when people wear pants,it will feel not comfortable,not beautiful. this problem is the thesis focuses on researching. First, we must learn about the18-25old adult unmarried female body morphology,to find out some common size. Through3D body scanning measure the body size, we get and analysize the data,to classific the body size.The other way, through the visual observation from the front, side, rear three aspects,we acquire different morphology of wasit,abdomen and hip on the senses.This thesis has chosen two aspects to carry on the discussion and research. One is different hip depth, the other is different waist and buttock. Based on different hip depth, the figure is divided into thick buttock and thin buttock, while based on the waist-hip differential, the human body is divided into a triangular form and H form. With the full understanding of each body feature, we wil have a good prepare for researching parameters relatively on patterns for bottom. How to meet the special figure’s demand about fitted trousers, is the focus of this paper. This paper is to resolve the distress of people who owns the special figure from patterns for bottom and external performance of coordination art. The solution methods of the former are, based on the collected data of special body form, combined with the standard trousers structure designing methods and three-dimensional cutting technology, the lines of pants patterns which have an effect in researching hip depth and waist-hip differential.To summuary up the law,then we obtain the equations about structure lines of trousers. This is the main innovation of the paper. The solution methods of the latter are,from the color, fabrics, dress collocation,fashion style etc, using the principle of illusion, the performance techniques of Op Art, the extrinsic compensation methods to design clothings to cover up or modify body defects.the research results of the structure of trousers pattern, which can enrich the pattern database in the MTM (Made To Measure tailored) design system. Body size can be obtained by3D body scanner.Then find out patterns for bottom from the patterns database,which is the most similar with the body size. Then to adjust trousers pattern properly, to sew clothes, it will not only meet the customer’s requirements, but also save time, improve the production efficiency, at the same time bring benefits to the enterprise. Therefore, it is necessary to subdivide a special figure, as well as,to study apparel construction of the corresponding body people can learn how to use clothe to cover up defects of their own body to achieve better external performance from this thesis on coordinated fashion design.