Pattern Study On Pleat And Gathers In Fit Gown

Pleat and gathers, two important design elements and description techniques, are widelyused in women garment design area for a long time. Single usage of one kind of pleat or gathersas well as comprehensive usage will enrich the garment styles, embody garmentthree-dimensional shape as well as its visual effect.Based on analyzing various photos, pleats and gathers are divided into one-point radioactivetype, associative arch-like type, consecutive type, flat type and comprehensive type. Combiningwith the complex human body appearance, this paper makes an analysis and research on how touse these various types on different areas of a garment.The experiment process is divided into fundamental experiment period and comprehensiveexperiment period. In fundamental experiment period, drafting paper, grey cloth and gown fabricare selected as experiment materials. Firstly, the dart is turned into pleats and gathers on the flatpattern. Secondly, quantity research method is used to collect the data of four elements of pleatsand gathers, the height, camber, angle and amount. Thirdly, via analyzing these data, thetransformation relationship between dart and pleats is obtained, and the relationship betweenthese four elements is got. In comprehensive experiment period, the application practice isexplored with gown fabric. Firstly, different pleats and gathers are made on different areas ofhuman body. Secondly, these draping gathers and pleats are transferred on to flat patterns. Lastly,the general law between these four elements is got, and the relationship between pleats andhuman body is obtained. Additionally, my graduation design, displaying the usage of associativearch-like type, single one-point radioactive type, and comprehensive one-point radioactive type,can be viewed as a practical proof for this paper.Via above research, we find that various types of pleats and gathers can be used in differentareas of a fit gown, but which needs to mesh with the human body. The fitting result is obtained mostly by draping method, that’s why gathers and pleats are widely used in tailor-made garments.Various gathers and pleats need different design techniques, workmanships and embodydifferent visual effects, of course, which above also raise a different requirement for the fabricperformances.