The Modeling Technology Compablitity Study Of Non-adhensive Interlining Suits’ Fabric And Lining

As the development and maturity of the suit market,non-adhensive suits are more and more popular with enterprise, its lightweight and breathability performance are more and more app-reciated by consumers.The non-adhensive suits use wool lining interlining instead of adhesive interlining,its production costs are higher with complex production process.This study start with non-adhensive suit combining with the scientific research project between Donghua University and garment enterprises in Hunan,conducted a study on assemble interlining and overlying lining method, analysis the molding effect of different combinations of technology for non-adhensive interlining suits,provide advice to the actual production, the main contents and conclusions of this paper are below:（1） Determine the experimental material,through the investigatation in market and enterprise,collect16kinds of non-fusible interlining suits fabric,then test the weight and thickness of fabric structural performance, teste the fabric tensile,compressive properties and drape,breathable performances using KES fabric style method,analyze fabrics structure performances and style parameters. Analysis these parameters, obtain the relationship model between fabric weight and fabric thickness:Y=0.0026*X+0.0199,an the relationship model between weft tensile power and weft reactive power: Y=0.2216*X-0.42002, finally elect four typical kinds of non-adhensiv interlining suits fabric.（2） Design the modeling technology compatibility program,choose two assemble interlinings depending on the production.Use manual and assemble line overlying lining process, consider—non-adhensive suits fabric—assemble interlinings—overlying lining methods to go on a orthogonal design,design16front pieces in total.（3） Make evaluation program of front pieces,design the evaluation criteria through exchanges with professional and technical personnel,determine the various parts of the front piece empowerment coefficient W=（0.1,0.13,0.2,0.11,0.09,0.37）,and invite them to do a subjective assessment,use gray-weighted correlation to convert subjective evaluation datas to gray weighting coefficient matrix.（4） Establish a regression model among front piece gray weighted correlation coefficient,fabric thickness/weight,static drape coefficient and fabric linearity: Y=-0.241*X₁-1.160*X₂+0.208*X₃+58.392,last use error analysis validate the model.Establish a linear model for the assemble interlining to the molding effect of front pieces:R2=1.075R1-0.166,the effect of assemble interlining01is better than a assemble interlining O2.Establish a linear model between overlying lining technology to the molding effect of front pieces:T1=0.818*T2+1.377, the effect of overlying lining technology02is better than a assemble interlining02.（5） Study the impact of temperature and humidity effects on non-adhensive suit front pieces. Design four sets of experimental conditions （T:15℃,RH:50%;T:15℃,RH:65%; T:20℃,RH:65%; T:20℃,RH:80%） thinking over temperature and humidity affect the quality of the finished non-adhensive suits interlining encountered in production.Place16front pieces in the four experimental groups about24h, all parts of the front piece are professionals subjective evaluated by professionals. In the same humidity, as the temperature increases （decreases）, the effect of the non-adhensive suit front pieces changes little;when at the same temperature,as the humidity increases （decreases）,the the effect of the non-adhensive suit front pieces changes significantly.